Remember that calm relaxed evening I was telling you about last night?  Well it turned into one of the scariest nights of our lives, and being “at the mercy of the sea” took on a whole new meaning for us.

Here’s how Press of Atlantic City described it.  “A rare and extremely intense line of severe thunderstorms packing hurricane force wind gusts barreled its way across the region.”  Another described the storm’s impact as “unexpected ferocity.”  One hundred fifty thousand homes are without electricity.  One man was drowned and his buddy was rescued by the Coast Guard when his boat capsized in the Absecon Inlet where we were anchored.  A dredging barge close to bridge, but across the channel from us broke loose and was pushed underneath the fixed bridge.  Different sources put wind gusts at speeds of 50 to 70 miles per hour.  We have now learned we survived a durecho, a storm with straigtht line winds up to 90 miles/hr.   

So you ask, what were we doing, fast asleep after our 82 mile day?

Because we knew there was slight chance of thunderstorms, we made sure to close down all the hatches.  Dennis had run the air conditioner for a hour or so to cool the cabin at bedtime and we were sleeping comfortably.  I was awakened about 1:00a.m. when I saw flashes in the western sky.  Checking the radar I saw a large band of red and yellow approaching from the west, but still wasn’t overly concerned, especially because nothing had been predicted.  How bad could it be, right?  I worked quickly to remove the screens and batten down the hatches, bring in the cockpit cushions, pull down the front window on the dodger.  

By that time Dennis is awake asking, “What’s going on?” He double checked outside to see if I had missed anything before turning to the weather channel forecast.  They had just issued a severe thunderstorm warning lasting until 1:30 for Atlantic City, and it was already 1:10.  Deducing from their predictions it must be a fast-moving storm, twenty minutes.  Again we thought, how bad could it be?  By this time we were both dressed and ready for anything, or so we thought. 

That’s when being the “at the mercy of the sea” lesson began.  The boat began to pitch and thrash about.  We grabbed life jackets and then sat down to keep from being thrown into something and injured, Dennis and Fritz on the floor, I on the settee, but clinging on for dear life, asking each other and the Man up above, “How long can this go on?”  The winds were howling and ripping relentlessly at Aurora.  Dennis heard my deep breathing, and asked, “Are you having a baby.”  Guess it did sound kind of like practicing for Lamaze.  All kinds of thoughts go through your mind like, “What happens if the anchor gives way, will we run aground, capsize or bash into the bridge a few hundred yards away?”  Then we just pushed those out and prayed.      

About 50 minutes and many prayers later the winds finally died down to 10-20 knots.  Upon opening the cockpit doors Dennis was amazed to see we were in the same place as when we anchored, meaning the 44 pound Delta anchor had passed a hurricane strength wind test. The bimini covers seemed to be shredded, but he was able to unzip the front one and bring it below.  He also retrieved a 18” metal rod from the bimini which had somehow been twisted out of its supports and by chance fallen into the cockpit instead of the water.  With the rain and wind still pelting the boat total damage assessment would have to wait until in the morning.  Dennis was able to go back to bed about 2:30, but I, unable to sleep, lay on the settee and contemplated what had just happened.  I checked on the runaway dredging barge every once in a while, and noted they moved it way up the channel away from the bridge.  There were all kinds of emergency lights in the channel, beyond, on and below the bridge.  Finally able to sleep at 3:30 I moved back into the berth.

Needless to say, we slept in until about 7:30, then began to scour the boat for damage.  The bimini zippers had given way on one side, hanging, but still intact except for one pull and it was easily replaced.  Dennis secured the bimini rod, checked the sails and the dinghy.  The anchor rode had chaffed some where it was on the roller.  Other than that, we only lost one dorade, (not sure if that is how it is spelled) plastic vent cover.  Although we may discover other damage later, we feel very blessed to have gotten off cheaply for the “at the mercy of the sea,” lesson and thank God for another opportunity to cruise yet another day.

Dennis called it the worst storm he’d ever been in, and said again that it would be a bad idea to try and ride out a hurricane in a sailboat.  

Leaving Atlantic City behind was not a problem, as we were glad to be on our way again.  After arriving in Cape May a couple came by in a panic and asked if there were more storms on the way.  Dennis had just checked the radar, and told them none were showing.  They then proceeded to tell us they were anchored here last night with six other sailboats when 40 mph winds came through.  Their boat was the only one not adrift until another smashed into them.  Shook up, but thankfully no one was hurt.  Unbelieveable!  After which we offered up a few more prayers of thanksgiving for our protection from the raging winds. 

           

We’ve both agreed, this is probably Fritz’s first and last long cruise. Twice each day we take the dinghy down and go to shore just for him.  It’s really not his fault when the dinghy won’t start, and Dennis pulls so many times he wears blisters on his hands.  Most of the time it starts right up, but last night it took 4 rounds of swearing, yanking, throttling, choking and unchoking before it finally gave in to his relentless persistence and purred, although when we got to shore it was kept running so not to get stranded.  It’s one more telltale sign that sitting in a marina makes your cruising skin thin.  Anyway, someone will get the pleasure of Fritz’s “every day is the happiest day of my life,” sunny disposition next year when we head for the Bahamas. 

Although it had been a hot and sticky 95 degree afternoon, the evening breezes cooled us down, ferry waves subsided, and even without air conditioning it was a comfortable night. 

This morning the alarm was set for 4:45, but we were still sitting in the Sandy Hook anchorage at 7:00.  Even though we were anxious to be on our way, with the sound of thunder boomers in the distance and a severe thunderstorm warning in effect, we thought it most prudent to stay a while longer.  Cruising began at 7:20 and ended 82 miles later in Atlantic City, in a little over eleven hours, a very pleasant run.  To begin, the wind was SW at 8-10mph and we were able to have the sails up for about half the trip. When it changed Southward we first rolled in the genny then eventually the main began to flop so we lost it too.    

On the ocean the temperature really was quite comfortable; in fact I wore a jacket most of day because the breeze was a little cool.  When we turned into Absecon Inlet, the oppressive heat off Atlantic City concrete, at least 15 degrees warmer than earlier, along with biting green flies greeted us.  Unlike yesterday, anchoring presented no challenge and we hooked securely the first time even in the current off the fixed bridge. 

It already feels cooler, the flies have retreated to their nighttime hideaways, dinner of spaghetti and salad dishes are done, time to relax, watch the sunset, listen to the music from the Golden Nugget just off our port and thank the good Lord for another day of safe passage.   

Here we are, “rocking and rolling” on anchor at 1:00p.m. in front of the Coast Guard station in Sandy Hook, NJ in 93 degree heat with no air conditioning…Ahhh, the cruising life!   

Guess the 11 days of city/dock life made us soft.  How can we tell?  First I fell off the boat into the water while trying to pull away from the dock, it took us 3 tries to get the anchor set when we got here, and the waves from the ferries to NY, which won’t stop till about 10:00p.m., are making us a bit queasy. To add to it, our holding tank is full and smelling to high heaven.  Ewww…the cruising life.

We were looking forward to an easy day with only 12 miles to our anchorage. The “man cave” had gotten a thorough shakedown, clean enough for feminine occupancy, and laundry duty completed by 9:00.  Bow out with only a little wind on the stern, it was a cinch to pull away cleanly from Liberty Harbor Marina.  We had said our goodbyes and Captain had graciously told our Canadian friend, Bill, next to us that we could handle this one…boy was he wrong.  Only one line remained to be let go of when Dennis put Aurora in forward.  I thought I could do the cowboy move demonstrated by so many dock hands and flip it off the dock cleat, but instead flipped myself, thankfully feet first into the water behind the boat.  Oh the places you’ll go as a cruiser…yuck!  Quickly Dennis put the boat in neutral and yelling, “Are you OK?”  As I clunk to the dock with both hands I replied, “I’m fine,”  and I was, except for my pride, especially when Bill reached out his hand and said, ”I should have helped.” 

I nodded and responded, “And this was going to be sooo easy.”  At least I didn’t hit anything going into the water, and was able to get back to the boat, pull the ladder down, and with Bill’s helping hand again, get out of the New York Harbor water.  Not even wanting to speculate what might be lurking in the H2O, I quickly made for the shower, changed clothes and we were finally away from the dock around 9:30.

Bidding Lady Liberty “adieu,” sailing by one last time, through New York Harbor on calm seas and 5 mph westerly winds, we made it safely without encountering any challenging moving obstructions. 

Not sure why we have issues anchoring occasionally, but think it has to do with the anchor landing wrong, plus maybe currents causing it to shift directions as it hits bottom.  Today it took 3 times to get it set in 25 ft depth.  Once set well though, it doesn’t shift and that is a good thing in the 3-4 ft ferry created waves in Sandy Hook Bay.

On the bright side, there is a nice breeze, the head should get pumped out tomorrow, and the ferries do stop around 10:00p.m.  With a little luck, we can get a good night’s sleep before our eighty-mile trip tomorrow to Atlantic City.

Finally homeward bound after 78 days!

June 26

After a week apart it was good to be reunited with Dennis and Fritz.  Sounds like they had some interesting adventures, and made some new cruising friends too.  Being off the boat visiting with Andrea and Nolan was restful, energizing me for the trip southward.  Dennis graciously decided to spend another day here so I could see a Broadway show and catch a few of the sites in the Big Apple.

June 27

For some riding the subway is a necessity, but for us it is a small adventure into an unknown realm.  Leaving the boat around 9:30, walking five blocks to the PATH station on Grove St. we descended downward taking the northbound train to 33^rd St.  From there we walked down Broadway and into TIKS line in Times Square for half-price show tickets.  Surprisingly it only took about thirty minutes to secure our seats for the Tony Award winning Best Musical, “Memphis.”  Showtime was 2:00 which left us plenty of time to walk to Central Park, past Carnegie Hall, down 5^th Avenue, sit a few minutes in St. Patrick’s Cathedral, eat lunch, and check out the Hersey’s store.  Beginning in high school, Dennis and I both have always had a love for both drama and “Rock and Roll” music, so “Memphis” was a perfect choice for us.  In song and dance it took us back to the birth of this movement in the underground dance clubs of the 1950s.  Outstanding singers and dancers wowed the audience with the heat and the beat of those times.  Back on Broadway we were again struck by the volume of people on the streets.  Where do they all come from?  Retracing our PATH we arrived back at the boat at 6:00p.m. with one happy dog awaiting our return.   

Tomorrow we to return to the cruising life after ten days of shore time, heading for Sandy Hook only about two hours south from here. 

Questions for you sailors:

1.      How much does a 73’ Alden weigh?

2.      What is the draft on a 73’ Alden?

3.      What size crew would you have deliver a 73’ Alden?

4.      Can you push a 73’ Alden off the dock?

Answers:

1.      90,000 LBS

2.      13.5’

3.      Five

4.      No, I tried.

A 73’ Alden pulled in two slips from us yesterday.  They went out to fuel up today so they went through the docking routine again.  The slip it is in is too small so they kind of rub coming in but it was the only one available for them in the area.  I didn’t get a tour below but it is a beautiful boat.

Yesterday afternoon while walking the dock at the marina I met three wonderful people, Rob, Eva and Ed.  We shared a few beers and they invited me out for a sail today.  Not one to pass up a sail I joined them on Ed’s 35’ Endeavour and we sailed in NY Harbor this afternoon.  What a wonderful sail. I forget how much I like to just go sailing with no destination in mind.  Thank you Ed, Rob and Eva!!!

Update from Shirla:

Jumping ship at 5:00 a.m. on June 19^th was not big deal, but finding my way for the first time on the labyrinth of the New Jersey subway system, then changing to an Amtrak train, and finally ending up at the Newark Airport ahead of schedule was a little more of a challenge.  With a little help from several women I encountered who each gave me an important piece of the puzzle it turned out to be easier than I had imagined, and well worth the $10.25 fare.  Sorry, but as much as we depend on our phones, in some cases the information is a little slow and lacks the personal touch, plus it’s nice to have someone to thank and wish a good day to after they have helped you find your way.  

My time here in Austin with grandbaby Nolan, my daughter Andrea, and her husband Chris, has been really wonderful.  Nolan, who will be three weeks on Tuesday, is now at 5lb 14oz, and doing well.  Mom and Dad are adjusting well to the life-changes of a newborn. There’s just nothing that compares to holding, cuddling and changing your new grandbaby.

On Tuesday morning I will be headed back to Jersey City to join Dennis and Fritz.   It sounds like they’re behaving, but Fritz did take Dennis the few blocks to Dunkin’ Donuts this morning.  Such a naughty dog!  Hopefully I will get back in time before he corrupts him too much more.  

Okay, so who have I seen in NY?  Well I was walking right behind Rod Stewart.  He was just one in the crowd.  Then in Little Italy today I saw Anthony Bourdain.  For those that don’t know him he travels around the world and talks about the best places to eat.  I wanted to ask him where I should eat in Little Italy. 

I also went by the WTC but the whole place is under construction.  Storms came in this afternoon and finally cooled things down.  I felt like I was in Florida the past several days. 

I need to add an addendum to yesterdays post.  After dinner I am sitting in the cockpit and I see activity behind me where there is a restaurant that is being renovation.  I see a small tent and look down the dock from me and there is a big movie camera and people in action.  I stroll over and learn they are shooting an independent film.  They have a fishing boat on a pier around the corner from our boat and that is where they are shooting.  The director and most of the crew are from Finland.  The star of the film is supposed to be Paulie from the Sopranos but I never saw him.  I don’t know what time they stopped shooting but when I got up at 12:30 am to check things out they were still going at it.  The funny scene (not in the movie) is when this jack terrier dog that is in the film decided to jump in the water and chase some ducks and they could not get the dog to turn around to the dock.  He finally did and they had the paper towels out drying him off.  I thought Fritz would have been a better dog for them but it was just not his time.

Today was another project day including a bike ride to Home Depot.  The Home Depot in Jersey City is right at the entrance to the Holland Tunnel.  Talk about another zoo.  I think tomorrow is another day in NYC with maybe a trip back to Ground Zero and a stroll to Little Italy.

June 19/20

Project day started with a walk to the Path subway station with Shirla at 5:00, then a run around Liberty Park followed by a shower and nap.  After that I washed the boat and reconfigured how to tie the dingy to the boat.  I walked to downtown Jersey City and that was interesting. 

This evening I was sitting in the cockpit watching the water taxis bring workers back from Manhattan to a commuter lot that is right by the marina.  Maybe it’s just me but that seems so sad.  I don’t know when the last taxi comes in but they come in every thirty minutes and the last one I saw was at 7:40.  Here these guys get to their car around 7:45, have to drive home to who knows where, have dinner, etc.  That does not sound like a fun life to me.  I guess we all do what we have to do.

Wednesday:

I took the Path subway to the NY this morning.  For two bucks it is quite the deal.  I walked less than ½ mile to the station and the train took me to 33^rd and Broadway.  There were a few other stops before 33^rd street.  What a crazy place!  It got to 97 degrees today and the city was wall to wall people.  I strolled to Central Park and later paid half price for a front row seat and saw Jersey Boys.  That was excellent. I noticed it does not take long to get into the flow, paying no attention to traffic lights when crossing the street, etc.  It was a fun day.

Today was Shirla’s last day in New Jersey before her trip to Austin to see the new grandbaby.   This morning we walked to Liberty State Park and took the ferry to Ellis Island.  I have to say that was really neat considering all my grandparents processed through there in the early 1900s.  They have done an amazing job by raising $5,000,000 to restore the facilities.  This afternoon we pre-walked the path Shirla needs to take early in the morning to catch the train to the Newark Airport.  The depot is pretty close, maybe only a half a mile.

The marina we are at is okay.  It has all the essentials and we have a view of the Statue of Liberty.  The water is also very calm here.  I could not take the last marina we were in just a mile or so north of us because of the wakes on the Hudson River that rocked the boat.

After Shirla leaves tomorrow I plan on a boat project day.  The next day I will likely take a trip across the Hudson to the Big Apple. 

Take note all, since Shirla will be gone the next week the blog will be short and a bit boring.  Shirla is the creative one.

June 16-17

Now this is cruising.  Port Washington and being put off schedule has taught us a lot…to slow down…enjoy where you are and…take time to relax.  There’s not a lot to do here as far as sightseeing, but the boating community is fascinating.  It began when we approached and could see boats dotting the horizon on white mooring balls.  These are locals who have nowhere else to put their boats for the season so they bring them here from as far away as New York City, forty-five minutes by car.  Then there are the twenty yellow moorings for transients like us, who come in for a day or two, or more.  Amenities that cruisers would normally pay for in other places, on moorings, or in marinas, are free here.  Water taxis start early for those live aboards who commute to jobs in the city.  When summoned the pump out boat comes within thirty minutes, manned by a proud Long Islander giving updates about the community events and advice about the best restaurants.

So you ask, what have we done for three days?  Thursday, after coming off the turbulent sound, was regroup and figure out what-to-do-next day.

Friday afternoon we decided to have a dark-n-stormy and as Dennis is sitting in the cockpit a guy on a beautiful eggshell blue-hulled Hinckley next to us says, “Hi!.”  We talked for a while and then asked him over for a drink.  Hot and tired he quickly accepted.  His name is Levi from Dominique (Hey mon!), doing deck work on the 1960s vintage Hinckley, and grateful for a cold one.  He proceeds to tell stories about his buddy he grew up with who was fixing up a wooden sailboat.  He said, "I told him to get rid of that boat, it is no good." The buddy finally takes the boat out with some other guys and they are pounding into the waves for days (we know about that).  At the tiller when he sees the name of his boat go floating by on a plank, this is not good.  Then he explains how they abandoned ship and were adrift for thirty-five days.  There is a lot more to his story and believe me it was very animated.   So for only a dark-n-stormy, our entertainment for the day was priceless.

Louie’s on the waterfront where the docks were filled with boats and people from far and wide coming to enjoy the beautiful evening beckoned to us for an dinner out of the galley.  The lobster bisque was delicious.  Later there was a free Symphonic Band concert by the town dock and the strains floated to us across the water.  Not one, but two sunset cannon salutes sounded as the daylight slowly slipped into darkness.   

On Saturday we went to the Town Dock and experienced the “blessing of the fleet,” a tradition started many years ago by Catholic fishermen wanting a prosperous and safe season.  A parade of about fifty boats of all varieties passed by after the Father read scriptures and prayers on their behalf. 

Back at the boat we watched sailboat races and not from afar.  These were class boats, around 20 feet with crews of 4.  Their tack back to their starting line brought the boats right through the mooring field.  One boat had to do a quick tack to avoid hitting us!  Such variety among the boaters here; Everything from two families who rented a runabout for a half day to a J. Paul Getty sailing yacht.  This unexpected bump in the Long Island Sound became a wonderful and relaxing cruisers experience for us.   

Today, Father’s Day, totally rested, ready to try the Sound and the East River again, we are returning to New York, actually the New Jersey side of the Hudson.  Chet, Dennis’ brother is picking us up for dinner with Wendy and nephew, Matt, in their home in Livingston.  I don’t think they have ever had the chance to be together on Father’s Day, so this will indeed be another sweet memory to savor.

Happy Dads Day to all!  

June 13-15

Thus far on the trip having “no schedule” has worked beautifully, but when plans were made for me to go see the new grandbaby in Austin, the “schedule” was to arrive in Boston on June 19^th where Dennis could be left comfortably on a mooring ball, and I could fly out of Boson Logan airport.  Good, well thought-out plan, or so we thought.  With fair weather, it was doable fifty to sixty mile days and an extra day for good measure. 

The first day we spent fighting northeast 15-20 wind and waves out of New York City on the East River into Long Island Sound.  Thirty miles was all we covered, following a barge up the Hudson River then drafting him on the Sound as he broke the waves, before finally giving up and turning in for the night at Oyster Bay?  On the second day we spent another 3 hours trying again to go northeast with the 15-20 winds on the nose, but there was no way it could be done.  Finally we admitted “schedule” defeat, turned the motor off and sailed for another 3 hours retracing the miles we had just covered, our northerly journey at end. 

So where to now, we’re asking ourselves, back to New York City?  Regrouping we discovered Manhasset Bay and Port Washington on the south shore of Long Island Sound with five star reviews in Active Captain.  What a treasure, North Hempstead Town Dock provides 2 nights free moorings (after that $25 per night), water taxis, free pump out, water, two dinghy docks with great access to shopping and restaurants.  Fritz even needed a vet and Old Shore Animal Clinic was a block from the dinghy dock. 

New plan, moored here until Sunday morning before returning to New York City with new marina, Liberty Harbor Marina, for Dennis and Fritz and new flight plan for Shirla out of Newark on Tuesday morning.

To every one of you out there who advised have “no schedule” you were so right.  And so our motto "cruisers can't be choosers" rises again.                 

June 11-12

Leaving Hoffman’s Marina around 8:00 on Monday morning allowed the current to decrease, but still made for a rough ride out of the Manasquan Inlet, with the waves coming from the east, current pushing us from the west. The fishermen on the dock said they weren’t going out because the winds were 10-15 and waves choppy.  We were on a schedule to get to New York to meet Dennis’ brother Chet in the afternoon, and after our rough time getting into the marina yesterday plus a restless night we were more than willing to face the rough seas.  Sure enough when we got out waves were 2-4 foot, but wind from the southeast filled our sails and gave us a relatively smooth ride at 8-9 knots.  And we saw many brave fishing souls along the way.  Good to know there are “wimpy fishermen” too.

For most seeing the Statue of Liberty for the first time gives us feelings of awe and inspiration, for Dennis knowing his grandparents came on a ship from Italy through the same harbor, it was reliving the ship-weary immigrants first glimpse of “the land of the free.”  It is impossible to imagine their feelings after their long difficult journey, but at the very least must have been a great sense of relief to finally be “home.”  With the Genoa unfurled we sailed right past the first lady of New York, Ellis Island, and the New York skyline with the two new trade center buildings front and center.  The only word to describe our sail of a lifetime into the harbor on Monday morning is awesome.  It also owns first place for most memorable moments on the trip.  (deep sigh)

The plan to anchor while in New York was foiled when we discovered the day before we arrived that the dinghy dock had been removed. With no way to get ashore, we opted for a pricey marina on the Jersey shore.  Chet, his wife, Wendy, nephew, Matt and his girlfriend Julie came aboard in the evening to check out Aurora.  To celebrate Dennis’ birthday, they whisked us off to a fabulous dinner at a Portuguese Steakhouse, then to their house to spend the night.  After two months on the boat, the first night in a bed without movement was very relaxing.  Wendy graciously fixed breakfast for us while Chet went off to work for a short time.  We enjoyed visiting during the morning, then at their urging took a first-time visit to Trader Joes.  Tasty treats abound, and we bought a few to sample.

Back at the house Wendy prepared a delicious lunch of mushroom ravioli and salad before ushering us off to Ellis Island.  The rain was quite heavy with winds kicking up the harbor when we arrived.  With it too wet and rough to take the ferry ride it was pleasant just to take in the inside exhibits at Liberty Park, the station where many immigrants caught trains to their final destinations.  Dennis strolled through the station as he imagined his grandfather might have on his arrival there.    

Finally Chet chauffeured us off to Shop Rite a few blocks from the marina so we could pick up the bulky provisions to finish out our trip and then dropped us at the dock.  Saying our goodbyes in the rain we wheeled the groceries off to the boat.  Even in the rain, it had been a fantastic relaxed day of shore duty with our family.    
 

June 10

We came, we saw, we spent, about thirty minutes in the Golden Nugget, but we didn’t conquer.  Just don’t have the heart for it, gamblin’ that is.  Anyway, Atlantic City is checked off the list and unlike some places we just can’t wait to explore further, we’re not sure we’ll come ashore again. 

Have you ever seen undulating, waving ribbons of water, pinks, purples and blues, with a mirror-like shine.  It’s hard to find words to describe the beauty of the Atlantic today.  It helps to understand why some people never want to return to land.  With every morning and evening the sky and water are new masterpieces of light and color.  And only for those few moments, never to be seen again.

Riding on the sea of tranquility, smooth as glass, the miles seemed to drag from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet.  We noticed a difference right away though when we arrived at the inlet.  It was Sunday afternoon, and about 85 degrees so everyone was out, rightfully so, enjoying the fair seas.  Captain had called the Harbor Master who told him to try to arrive around 2:00p.m. because of the current, so we did.  Fuel was to be our first stop then on to a T-dock (end dock) so we were anticipating easy on and off for docking.  But wait, remember before when I said “cruisers can’t be choosers?"  Well this is one of those times.  (To be continued.)

As we got further into the channel it got narrower, about 70 ft.wide in front of the marina fuel dock then about 100 yards further on was a narrow 50ft opening through a light rail train bridge.  We were in a line of about 6 boats who were headed through and were ready to swing over to the fuel dock for a starboard tie.  At that time I'm on the bow ready to throw a line to the hands on the dock when I hear the harbor master yell, "You need to turn around and come in on your port side."  "REALLY???"  I'm thinking.  So I yell the directions back to Dennis, and he begins a rapid 360 in the middle of the channel against the 3 knot current.  I guess the sight of a sixty-year-old woman flayling her arms about on the bow of the boat, yelling, "We're coming about!" was enough to scare the 5 boats following closely in the channel behind us into, slow down, reverse, turn out of the channel, anything to get out of our way letting us complete the turn back to the fuel dock.  In the meantime I'm making sure the lines are switched over to the port.  OK, so we're thinking the worst is over, we  did it, and nobody died.  

After getting fuel we noticed the harbor master on the phone talking worriedly about needing to put us somewhere else besides the T-dock, possibly a slip because he was concerned for our safety in the current on the other side of the bridge.  The only problem is we have to again make a fast 45 degree turn in swift water to get there, so he put two teenage dock hands on our boat to help us fend off if needed and get tied up.  First we had to make another 360 degree turn to be headed the right direction, but at least we could wait till there was no traffic in our way.  With 3 other adults on the dock when we got to the slip we were able to dock with everyone pulling, fending, pushing, while yelling directions.  De je vu? 

Even though we had a restless night worrying about how to get out of the slip, against current, wind, and very little room to manuever, the harbor master was determined we would get out of the marina safely, which with 4 people helping we did.   Although we didn't have a choice in the situation, which was definitely unsafe for us, we do have a choice to never return to Manasquan Inlet.

Traveling along Jersey shores today we came across Morey’s Pier.  The rides of twisted metal looked pretty scary and painful even from our vantage point a mile out on the water so we left that port-o-call to the younger crowd.  Getting closer to Atlantic City and the impressive buildings a guessing game began of who owned which one, and which one was the largest.  Choppy water on the Absecon Inlet was the only place for an anchorage, but we like free, so we took it.  A marina at the Golden Nugget Casino who wanted $3 per foot ($126 for our 41ft) for overnight dockage was kind enough to let us tie up our dinghy for a few hours.  Of course the Board Walk was why we stopped, so we hailed a Jitney (small people mover) and were off.  Hundreds of people strolled, ate, sat, talking, sunning, and gambling along the long walk.  Dennis’ birthday (#62) is today so appropriately he found a place to have a short “senior” nap along side another old guy while we were there.  Tonight we’ll return for birthday dinner.  I asked Dennis what to say about today he sang, “It’s a great day to be alive.”  His biggest gift of the day was getting phone calls from eight of the grandchildren singing “Happy Birthday to Grandpa.”  So yes, that indeed makes it a great day. 

Friday Update

We decided to stay at Cape May today so Atlantic City and losing our money will have to wait a day.  More later.

“Oh, say can you see by the dawn’s early light…”  There are advantages to being anchored next to the nation’s only Coast Guard Recruit Training Center, like taps at sunset and The National Anthem during breakfast.   Fritz thinks we’re trying to corrupt him because we snuck him on to their restricted beach area for his morning run.  What’s a dog to do?

Cape May’s alluring history kept us here today.  Taking the bikes ashore to the gracious Utsches Marina who allowed us to tie up there for a few hours, we began as usual at the visitor’s center collecting free maps.  It being almost noon time we strolled down the Washington Street Mall, quaint shops in old buildings.  Choosing Stewarts Root Beer Shop for lunch, especially enjoying the suds in frosted mugs.  Very satisfied with our choice, we rode two blocks east and found the white sand along Beach Avenue.  With no time for lounging on the beach, instead we turned south and pedaled about 3 miles towards Cape May Point and Sunset Beach one of the few places to be able to see the sun both rising and setting.  Located off the point is also a sunken concrete ship, the S.S. Atlantus a government experiment gone awry.  What were they thinking? 
   
A few blocks back north and east is Cape May Lighthouse, a WWII Bunker on the beach, and a migratory bird sanctuary.  The huge white swans on the pond were magnificent.  What looked like a large concrete box from the Atlantic side was the bunker.  We finished our afternoon with a look around the historic district and the restored Victorian homes.  Making one last stop at the grocery store then pedaling fast to the marina, Dennis made a turn I missed, but thank goodness for phones, he helped me find my way, and I was able to catch up to him without him backtracking to find me. 

Some of us rested well in Delaware City after being grandbaby-on-the-way sleepless in Baltimore.  Some of us woke up counting not sheep, but wind speed, tide, currents anything that might have an effect on today’s possible rough fifty-six mile ride on the Delaware River and Bay to Cape May, NJ.  Several cruisers were waiting another day, but after weighing all the factors, and trying to sleep on it, we left the marina at 5:00a.m.  The inky sky was beginning to lighten which was enough to see any debris, another factor after the coastal flooding here.  What we found was current running about 3 knots in our favor for four and a half hours, winds 5-10 knots, and only a light chop on the water.  All factors combined for those first few hours instead of our normal straight motoring at 7.5 knots, we saw average speeds of about 9 knots, and maxing at 11.7.  Needing to alter course slightly cost us the sail power, and when the current changed against us our speed was cut to 6.5 knots, still decent.  Fritz and I were able to keep Captain company in the cockpit the whole way. Winds have picked up this afternoon, and we were glad to be safely sheltered in Cape May shortly after noon.  Of course everyone has to make their own decision about what’s comfortable and safe for them, but after such a pleasant crossing on Aurora, we knew this one was right for us.  With almost perfect passages the last two days on what we had been told were very difficult ones, our navigational confidence has definitely gotten a boost. 

Cha-ching!  Atlantic City tomorrow!    

“Given wind, or no wind, I’d take no wind,” advice from the Annapolis harbormaster when describing what’s the best conditions for sailors northbound on the Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) Canal and the Delaware River/Bay to Cape May.  Dennis had studied the charts, tide tables, current tables, wind forecasts and gleaned advice from several sources before deciding how and when to take on the C&D today.  It began about the time the sun was rising over Baltimore this morning.  As we passed our waypoint, Chesapeake 20, making a sharp northward turn, we found ourselves in a flooding tide pushing us along 2 knots faster than the prop was turning.  It continued the whole way, and with a few mph of wind to help at one point Aurora maxed at 10knots of speed.  Even with the sails down later we were able to sustain 9 knots.  Surprisingly, although told we might encounter large cargo ships in the center of the 400 ft wide canal, saw only one sailboat, one jetski and one small trawler.  We felt the sun shining on us today, making Delaware City on the Delaware River at 1:45p.m.

As cruisers there are no givens, each day is totally different and although riding high on today’s pleasant wave know tomorrows Delaware River fifty-mile trip, through shallows and ships, where tide and currents are best at 2:00a.m. (not leaving till 6:00) will most probably challenge our "wind or no wind" skills.  Off to the berth early tonight!

Tired too because last night daughter Andrea in Austin, TX, who wasn’t due until July 3, had her first baby, Nolan Robert Atkins at 11:19p.m.  Hard to sleep both before and after getting to talk to her again at 1:45a.m our time.  Should be easy to rest peacefully tonight knowing all are doing well.  


  

Leaving Annapolis behind early this morning was like saying good bye to an old friend.  On the way out of our anchorage around 6:00 a.m., I took more pictures of the Naval Academy field with about five hundred high school students doing pushups and jumping jacks as they shouted to the rising sun, “Let’s go Navy!”  This is a camp designed to show them academy life, and from what we could see, is sure to scare off a few.  With 22,000 applications and only 1,200 accepted to the school, they would be extremely lucky to get a place in the exclusive freshman class of 2013.

There’s an old saying among sailors, that when there’s another boat on the water with the same heading, it’s a race.  This morning as Aurora headed north with 10mph NE winds she was out ahead of the “other” boat, and remained in the lead most of the twenty-seven miles to Baltimore.  Captain did his best to stay there, even taking shortcut, and going out of the channel, which is not something he does…ever.  But in this case it was a necessity to avoid the 82,000 ton bulk carrier.  In the end, though the “United Fortune” from Singapore eased on up, winning by several lengths, into her dock.  Foiled again! 

Baltimore, Inner Harbor has been an unusual experience, especially after just spent four days and nights in clean-cut Annapolis.  Leaving the Chesapeake, heading up the Patapsco River, then passing under Francis Scott Key Bridge we began to notice an odor, but thought it was just the industrial pollutants floating acrid across the water.  Just as we were happy with our set in the narrow Inner Harbor, the Baltimore Fire Department boat came over and suggested we move away for 30 minutes or so as they were going to do a water display, and as he put it, “you might not want this water on your boat.”  We complied and were glad we did.  Sorry to the locals in Baltimore but this place stinks.  The murky water is littered with so much trash they have a special boat with metal baskets on the front to scoop up the debris.  It is like being anchored in a cess pool.  Dennis tried sitting out in the cockpit, but was driven back inside by the overpowering smell.  Sure hope they clean up their act soon, as this cannot be healthy.

On a lighter note, all around the edges of the harbor there are water activities and rides of one sort or the other.  As we tied up the dinghy to take Fritz ashore three little boys ran over to the boat and one said, “How much for that?” thinking it was for rides too.  Smart kid shopping around, you just never know when you might get a great dinghy deal.

Tonight we made it back to the downtown waterfront, and found the foul odor not so bad there.  In the restaurant the waiter said it was some kind of algae problem.  We’re still not sure that is the total answer, but hopefully if it is, it will soon be gone.

An exciting end to our day, another “blue light special” team paid a visit at 9:00p.m.  Thankfully we were still up and dressed when Coast Guard officers came calling off our port.  One good thing about having an inspection in Wrightsville Beach a month ago is they were happy to be on their way after seeing the recent paperwork.       

Tomorrow we’re heading out early again, trying to make Chesapeake City on the flooding tide. 

For most of us boating is a getaway, a sport designed to be pleasurable which can be a bit challenging at times, but if we don’t feel up to it, it’s too hot, too cold, too rough, too windy or doesn’t suit us, we simply don’t go.

For some, no matter how challenging, how bad they feel, too hot, too cold, too rough, too windy, they simply have to go.  We heard their stories yesterday at the Maritime Museum in Eastport, MD gaining a new appreciation for the “Watermen” families who for years have made a living harvesting the oysters from the Chesapeake.  Most days start early and end twelve to fourteen hours later.  We saw several this yesterday morning when we left our anchorage at 5:30 already on the water running their trot lines.  Yes they do make a living, but it is challenging and physically exhausting.  Guess next time we have to dodge their crab pot or trot line we won’t be as quick to complain about their livelihood interfering with our fun.

For a view Sunday and Monday, June 3-4, of Aurora in Annapolis go to:   

http://www.annapolisyc.com/default.aspx?p=DynamicModule&pageid=281972&ssid=157917&vnf=1

We're on the left, white sailboat just off the nose of the Megayacht.

What do you get when you combine sailboats as far as the eye can see, eighteen marinas, “Ego Alley,” where boaters parade their craft in front of the City Dock, the state capital of Maryland, more 18^th century homes that any other city in the country, and four thousand of the brightest college students in the nation…………………………… You get Annapolis, home of US Naval Academy and America’s sailing capital.  Is laid back and lively an oxymoron?  It sure seems like Annapolis has it all; Its simple beauty in the unhurried life on the water; Its wealth of proud traditions from Navy heritage, to patriotism, and a love for sailing; Its eclectic historic district with a little something for everyone.

(to be coninuted) 

Touring the United States Naval Academy has to be one of the highlights of our two days here.  Seeing where four thousand Mid Shipmen eat, sleep and study in one gigantic dormitory, then strolling across the neatly manicured campus, you get a sense of strength developed through discipline and the determination they have to be of service to their countrymen.

On the recommendation of our friend, Tom Wells, who said we absolutely must go have breakfast at Chick and Ruth’s Delly on Main Street, we did.  Arriving about 9:00, we chatted with some locals, who turned out to be retired USMC Colonel and Mrs. Joe Flynn.  At 9:30, owner Ted got on the intercom and led in the Pledge of Allegiance, with everyone in the restaurant standing.  The walls were lined newspaper articles and awards to the owners in recognition of patriotism, friendship, and caring commitment to helping those who have sacrificed for our country.  We called Tom to thank him for a glimpse of these every day exceptional people who are Annapolis. 

Actually staying here two more nights, as the winds are too strong 15-25, on Monday.  

Again, we would love for you to leave a comment on the blog, and have changed the setting to hopefully make it easier than in the past.