Final Post of the East Coast Cruise (please disregard highlighted words)

Guess we need to wrap up our cruising adventure with a few reflections and final thoughts.  You have been faithful to the blog, we thank you.  You have graciously listened to my attempts to describe what so many of you already know about boating and for your patience I am grateful.  You have given me the chance to find my writing voice, you have been my audience. Cruising has given flight to my thoughts and words that land never could, and your faithfulness motivated me in my feeble attempts to share our adventure.

As you can tell this has been a dramatic journey for me.  In the beginning it was Dennis’ dream to cruise up the east coast and I simply wanted it for him, but it evolved into so much more.  The growth through challenges, the ever-amazing beauty of nature, the triumphs, the fears, the terror to tranquility, the history all wrapped up in an unbelievable journey of heart, soul and mind.  I must say I tried not to bore you with details, but there were times we would disagreed, even yelled (it takes more than marriage savers to save the day) and know we’re not perfect by any means.  Dennis has a wonderful saying though that we both use at the end of the day no matter who’d been right or wrong, it’s simply “I love you……anyway.”  Such words diffused our attitudes when the decision-making was difficult, the space seemed too small, there was nowhere else to go and no one else to talk to.  No doubt about it, cruising tests your marriage, but working together day after day side by side to keep each other going forward, happy and safe creates a bond of trust, tests the strength of the relationship, and stretches it to a new and deeper dimension.  So for those of you who keep politely asking, “Are we still married?”  Yes we are, thank you and stronger for it.  And for those who are thinking of lengthy cruises, get ready for challenges of the heart.

Reflections on the trip: 

Would we do it again?  Probably not for four months, and definitely not living aboard.  We love being active people here in Florida, and missed our walking, running, biking, golfing, swimming and especially spending time with our Mariner friends, an amazing group both on land and water.    

The best thing about the trip?  Being one with nature; the vibrant colors of the water, the amazing sea life, sunsets and sunrises, magnificent trees, the power and majesty of the water.

The scariest part?  Surviving the storm on July 1, in Atlantic City, and for me being assaulted by the wind storm in Lake Sylvia in Ft. Lauderdale July 22.

Biggest disappointment?  Having to use the motor and not being able to sail as much as we hoped.  

Our expenses?  We figured $50 per travel day for fuel, then marinas a couple of times a week ($.85 to $2 per ft,) plus food and sightseeing/entertainment.  We also tried to cook on the boat for most meals, eating out only a couple of times a week.  Groceries were a little more expensive than being at home, but we improvised or did without rather than run to the store for what we needed, so we probably spent less than at home. Laundry was about $8 every two weeks.

Statistics for the trip:  Days out-108.  Miles traveled 3,446.  Diesel fuel used, 535 gal. ($3.95 avg. price per gallon)    

What did we learn? 

1.  Wind is the biggest determining factor in planning where, how and when you go in a sailboat. I know that kind of sounds like “no duh,” but there are other factors involved, like current, waves, and tides which we had not really experienced before this trip.  Then of course, there’s always the weather.  Even considering all the others, wind is still the single most important consideration for a sailboat. 

2.  Always back down on the anchor to make sure it is set. 

3.  Even if the wind is favorable never turn your engine off coming in or going out of an inlet. 

4.  Although Fritz is great company, and a great boat dog, it’s best for everyone if he stays home. Dennis definitely won the hairiest contest, but Fritz won the prize for gaining the most weight, three pounds, on top of the two pounds heavier than the vet liked.  Needless to say, his food rations have been cut by half a cup, and to his delight, he is getting extra-long morning and evening walks.  He’s already lost 1.5 lbs.

5.  No two days are ever the same on the water.

6.  Any time is the time for the unexpected.    

To any of you who are thinking of cruising we say, “Go for it, no matter what anyone says to discourage you because tomorrow is uncertain, all you have for sure is today, and later never comes.”

Thanks to our children who although were at times scared, worried and weren’t even sure we would make it back, still supported and were excited for us.  We love you guys.

To our family, friends and friends of friends who followed with your 5,009 views of the blog we say thanks for your words of support and encouragement.  Our next trip is April and May, 2013 to the Bahamas, so expect another blog.

Till then, take care friends, and may God bless with fair winds wherever your heart takes you.

Friday-Sunday July 27-29—Home in PGI

Aurora’s saltwater coating has been removed and all covers are in place for the first time in four months.  Dennis literally fell down, kissed the ground and we both thanked the Lord for our safe passage home through the darkness on Thursday night. 

Thirty-six hours without much sleep took its toll and we wandered the house on Friday in a stupor, saying, “Look at those dead bugs,” and a little while later, “Oh there’s some more dead bugs,” and, “Did you see those dead ants in the bathroom?”  But never once did one of us approach with the vacuum to try and eliminate them.  Otherwise the house looked good with no leaks or major problems.  We are blessed with neighbors who kept watch for us while we were away and thankfully did not need to call us once during the 3 ½ months.

We had reconnected our phone, internet and cable, so were able to watch the Opening Ceremonies of the XXX Olympics in the evening.  It was a good excuse to let the boat stuff go, sit on the comfy couch and catch several naps.  Saturday we spent time unpacking and trying to get over the wobbling sensation that follows you from the boat onto land.  

During the tropical storm Debbie the water was up over the dock causing our wooden steps to float in the canal but our neighbors rescued and drug them up onto the bank by our dock.  Water soaked they eventually disintegrated so we were only able to carry off essentials from the boat on Friday.  Dennis quickly made a new set of sturdy steps the next morning and we did more unpacking. 

I can finally say today, Sunday, our third day home, that the boat is totally unpacked, but not cleaned.  It can wait a few days till we get some of our energy back.  Dennis has made a long boat list, including changing the oil, fan for the generator, dinghy davit for the dock, having some of the electronics checked out, and finding the leak in the freezer, just to mention a few.  Our next trip is planned for the spring of 2013 to the Bahamas so we have time to work out all bugs before then.

We do have a few more posts with reflections on our favorite things, what we’ve learned and what we’ll do differently next time over the next week or so. 

Before I sign off tonight I want to thank one of our followers for the nice email saying that we had inspired him to finish the work on his boat.  To know sharing our stories has motivated someone else to follow their dream is the ultimate compliment paid to our adventure.    

July 26-27—Boot Key, Marathon to Home

A nice breeze on Wednesday night helped us sleep comfortably, and ready to “take on”  the pesky lobster pots two different people had warned us were in our path to Marco Island on Thursday.  Slipping slowly away from our mooring in the darkness, being watchful of the shallow channel out of Boot Key Harbor, then under the Seven Mile Bridge by 7:00, and finally into the Florida Bay, all four eyes scanning the water for the infamous aggravating pots.  But where are they we kept asking each other?  There were hundreds of small fishing boats with dive flags, but not one pot among them.  For seventy miles to Cape Ramano we watched, ready to dodge, but still no pots.

The sun was pretty oppressive, keeping Fritz and I below except to relieve the Captain for an hour or two here and there.  Our hundred fifty gallon water tanks were three quarters full and provided relief with several cool showers.  Without enough wind to keep the sails up coupled together with the heat, this is really what we had expected once we crossed into Florida, but luckily had avoided until now.  The idea of skipping Marco, a place we dread getting in and out of, and doing an overnight all the way home was becoming very appealing.  The pros were obvious, avoid a second day of merciless heat, skip Marco, be home by 7:00 am Friday morning at high tide, instead of 8:00 pm Friday, low tide, which can make it too shallow for our 5 ½ ft draft, the night, according to NOAAH was to be storm-free, and there would be some moonlight.  The cons, traveling off-shore in unfamiliar waters, the possibility of hard-to-spot abandoned crab pots fouling the prop (very unlikely, as we had only seen a few even in the daylight,) navigating Boca Grande Pass in the dark, which we had never attempted even in the daylight, and being on watch twenty-four hours, in the end were greatly outweighed by the pros.

Our decision made, we waved to Marco Island from afar, and entered our next waypoint, Sanibel Island.  Arriving there ahead of schedule at 11:30pm, Captain entered our last off shore waypoint and navigational challenge, Boca Grande, ETA, 2:00am.  Around 1:00am the moon dipped below the horizon leaving us to make the rest of the passage engulfed in cooling blackness.  Entering the three mile pass very slowly and using the spotlight to identify the unlit channel markers, it took about thirty minutes to motor through and arrive in the familiar waters of Charlotte Harbor.  Even though still three and a half hours from our dock, it felt like we were home.  Now our only challenge was slowing down to give the sun it’s time to rise and light the canals to home.  As with any trip, it’s always good to be home, but sad to think that it’s finally at an end.

Over the next few days we will be posting some additional information, thoughts and feelings on the trip if you want to continue to follow along a little while longer.  If not we appreciate the almost 4,700 views of our blog.  Some of you we know, some of you we don’t, but either way, thanks for coming along on our journey and hope we have given you a just little taste of our adventure.      

July 25--Rodriguez Key to Boot Key Harbor, Marathon

About five years ago Dennis and I got certified to scuba dive.  Although we’ve only made a few dives, we hope to sometime in the future to get our own equipment and make some diving trips.  Right now we pay someone to come in once a month to dive under Aurora and scrap off the barnacles, but hopefully is something eventually we can do ourselves.  Leaving Rodriguez Key this morning we saw many fishing boats heading for off shore water and then later saw various kinds of boats all along the reef with their red dive flags out.  At one point the Coast Guard came calling, “Pan pan, pan pan, pan pan. This is the United States Coast Guard with a report of a diver down, unaccounted for.”   Then they proceeded to give latitude and longitude for the location, asking boaters to keep a sharp look out.  We were not close to their vicinity, so nothing to do, but say a prayer for him to be found.  Thankfully, thirty minutes later they were able to cancel the emergency, saying he had been safely recovered.  Like sailing, diving’s another water activity where safety is paramount.  Glad to have an awesome sailing and diving buddy.        

Not having been on coastal waters much to witness their incredible level of responsibility to the boating community, it has been both enlightening and reassuring to learn, like local police, the Coast Guard is just a quick radio call away to assist in an emergency.  Each and every day from early to late we’ve heard them giving assistance to boaters in trouble and warnings of potential problems on the water.  It is an incredible branch of the military, doing an incredible job of keeping our waters safe and we’ve been grateful for their reassuring presence during our trip.

Tonight we are on a mooring in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon in the Middle Keys, and then head north again in the morning, only this time on the Gulf Coast towards PGI.  We are attempting to make it home from here, weather permitting, in just two days.  Tomorrow night we will be in Marco Island, and Friday home.  They will probably be two long, hot days, plus twice already we’ve been warned of the lobster pots.  Even though the season doesn’t officially open until next week, fishermen are apparently getting them out so all they have to do is bait them when it begins.  Dodging lobster pots should make the last two days of the trip interesting, maybe learn some new sailing techniques?  I can see some of you now grimacing at the thought of the pots because you’ve been there, done that.  Anyway, send good thoughts our way for safe travel, and no lobster pot disaster stories. 

Check out the hairiest contest contestants.  Who has your vote?   

July 24—Ft. Lauderdale to Rodriguez Key

Finally a weather window opened today, and we said good-bye to our safe harbor, Ft. Lauderdale.  Seeking shelter there both coming and going for a total of 6 days, the most of any other, except Jersey City.  Winds were forecast to be only 7 to 8 mph, but when we reached the channel going out to the Atlantic, they were more like 12 to 15 on the bow, creating rough seas.  Finally as we slipped by Miami they calmed and eventually changed to a more easterly direction allowing us to put up the genny, picking up a half knot of speed.  Interestingly, the skies all day were overcast, according to Ft. Lauderdale weather reports because of Sahara dust, keeping the temperature comfortably in the mid 80s.   

You can see the aquamarine water of the Keys from a distance, and it is just amazing that even at shallow depths of fifteen to twenty feet, life on the bottom is crystal clear. It felt very comforting to be back on the water with boats coming and going in every direction with lots of chatter on the radio.     

Once the winds calmed the seventy-five mile passage to Rodriguez Key was quite nice. Our ETA was 6:00, but with the extra half knot we were anchored by 5:00.  We double checked the anchor to make sure it was secure before going ashore at Mandalay Oceanfront Grill and Tiki for dinner.  Great restaurant well worth the mile dinghy ride with excellent food, live music and even a water bowl for Fritz.  Ahhhhh the Keys, not home, but sooo comfortably close.

Tomorrow’s destination is Boot Key, Marathon, only about 40 miles, then if conditions hold, Marco on Thursday, and PGI on Friday. 

Glory be!  Holding our breath…  Can we really be home in time for the start of the Olympics?            

July 22—Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale

Captain said his mistake was stopping at Burger King for lunch, but as he explained his delay in returning, I realized there was much more to it.  First, when he left, he knew there was some rain on the radar and not far away. Second, he went down every isle of mega West Marine, the largest store in the world, uncaring of what was happening outside.  And lastly, he didn’t check the radar even once after he left Fritz and me on the boat.  What was he thinking?

The first time I called he was walking in the pouring rain and couldn’t answer or he might ruin his phone.  He thought if I called again he would know I was in trouble.  I waited, and called again three minutes later, still no answer.  He found shelter in the Embassy Suites lobby and called me back.  I didn’t answer, so he dialed again, this time he heard my desperation, “I can’t talk!  The anchor is dragging and I have to start the engine before we hit the other boats!”  

Before I share another storm tale of terror to tranquility let me back up to the early morning.  The heat in the aft berth drove me out onto the deck to sleep and about 2:00am was awake when I noticed a boat without any lights drifting about 50 yards away.  Concerned, thinking their anchor was not holding, I got out a spotlight and binoculars.  It was scary as they drifted back, back, back, almost into the sea wall of this affluent neighborhood, but then all of a sudden the boat moved forward.  This happened time after time, obviously on purpose, so my fearfulness was replaced with my curiosity.  Using the binoculars I could see it was an older man with a younger boy, probably dad and son, probably fishing, so no need for alarm.  Eventually they left, and I returned to my storm-free night’s rest. 

Morning dawned with overcast skies, no sunrise and the radar showing some patchy green and blue headed north for Ft. Lauderdale.  Thinking it was just rain showers Dennis left about 10:00, dinghyed a couple miles down the canals to where he could tie up and walk another mile and a half to West Marine.  He was looking for a fan to fix the ongoing problem of the overheating generator. 

After he left, I took a large blue tarp and secured it with bungees over the cabin so once the rain started we could keep the hatches open.  Working down below about 11:45, I heard the rain pattering on the cabin top.  Soon after I looked at the radar and it now showed some yellow and red tracking towards Lake Sylvia.  I was still not concerned until I heard the wind starting to blow and Aurora began to pitch about, immediately wishing Dennis was back on board. As the winds began to increase, I remembered back to yesterday when we anchored, that we hadn’t really backed down on the chain as well as we usually do, and that we had only put out 80 ft of chain.  Only then did I begin to think of the possibility, of the anchor not holding.   Wind speeds increased and blowing rain kept me from seeing if the anchor chain was taut.  The tarp began to whip about, and after about 10 minutes of wind abuse came loose on one side.  I went to the top of the cabin steps and poked my head out several times, but the blowing rain, and tarp whipping around hindered my sight of our position.   I began to look out the side hatches and the position of the boat in relation to things along the shore.  Off to port was a 60ft blue and white yacht, off starboard was the only other sailboat in the anchorage. We were swinging side to side, still difficult to tell, but I knew we were probably slipping.  It was probably around 12:15 when this dawned on me, and I began to consider the scenarios.  First I knew if the anchor was dragging we might not go too far and also knew the lake is about 400 long by 300 yards wide giving room for some movement.  On the port at 50 ft was the blue yacht tied to a seawall, anchored off our stern about 100 yards back were two 60 foot motor yachts rafted together.  Then there were two other 25 ft power boats motoring about.

Once I knew we were indeed moving, I tried to keep a close watch on the positions of all the other boats, and I also knew we had some room to drift before we were in big trouble.  With the winds now reaching about 20 mph and horizontal rains Aurora began to slip backwards quickly.  I started to pray for the winds to decrease so we wouldn’t drift any further, and also began thinking of what I could do.  Dennis and I had talked in length about the anchor rode getting wrapped around the prop so I was very reluctant to start the engine and go forward towards the chain, but knew ultimately that is what I might have to do.  I kept going outside and assessing and realized we were getting closer and closer to the two yachts behind, and further from the blue yacht and sailboat where we had been. 

By this time I am soaked to the skin and the two boats motoring around had been by at least 3 times.  I know they realized Aurora was dragging, but not sure if they knew I was by myself trying to figure out what to do.  They were doing their best to stay out of harm’s way.  I knew by now the winds were not going to stop in time to keep us from hitting the two boats now off the stern by about 40 ft.  They realized it too and had sent someone out on the bow to fend us off.  It was time to stop praying, and use my knowledge to do something about the situation. I had already called Dennis twice.  I grabbed my raincoat, the engine key, turned on the instruments and headed for the cockpit when the phone rang, and I yelled to him my intentions.  He confirmed to start the engine. 

The rain was pelting me, and it was difficult to get the key seated.  Finally it turned and the engine purred.  Now only about 30 ft from the two boats, I put it in forward increasing to 2200 rpms until I could go forward 50 feet, fighting the wheel to keep going forward, not sideways, then put it in neutral for a few seconds.  As soon as I decreased speed or put it in neutral the boat would immediately slide backwards again, and if I didn’t keep the bow pointing into the wind even with speed I would slip sideways.  I went forward, then slid backward or sideways about 5 times.  Each time brought more relief as I realized if the chain was going to fowl the prop it would have already done so.  At one point I waved off one of the power boats as he came close and was afraid I might be blown into him.  He turned and motored off in a different direction.  There were four lightening strikes during this time, one of which flashed red.  Finally the winds subsided to about 10 mph, and was surprised when I heard Dennis around 1:00 yelling behind me, “Stop the boat!”   So relieved to have the captain back and in charge, I gladly stopped.   My forty minutes of terror were finally at an end.  Even though a gentle rain replaced the storm, I wasn’t tranquil for a long time.    

July 23—Los Olas Marina, Ft. Lauderdale

Storms were forecast again for today, so Dennis found us a marina about a half mile from Lake Sylvia for 85 cents a foot.  What a deal!  He kicked himself for not finding it sooner, especially with my ordeal yesterday.  The “priceless part” it is only two blocks from the beach!  I made three trips there, the last time for yogurt and do finally feel truly tranquil.  Tomorrow we’re offshore, hopefully storm-free to Rodriguez Key, then Marathon on Wednesday.  It’s hard knowing there at least 5 or 6 more days on the boat when we’re only 2 ½ hours from home, but good to know we’ll be there soon!  Please pray for fair winds for our last few days. 

July 21—Lake Worth Inlet, West Palm Beach to Ft. Lauderdale

Our dismount today from the New Port Cove Marina slip was a bit tricky with winds on port blowing our starboard side into the dock finger.  Captain attached two lines on dock post on the port which I held tightly as he reversed.  A fisherman came to our rescue when Dennis asked him earlier to be ready to fend us off of a pretty little trawler with beautiful but fragile wood railings in the slip to our starboard.  The two line system worked great holding starboard close to the post until Dennis reversed to get us out of the slip without drifting into the other boat.  One of the biggest challenges of the trip has been learning how to maneuver Aurora in and out of slips when there is wind.  It is finally getting easier, and a little less scary, but I must say anchoring, even in wind is never as challenging as the marinas.      

The best laid plans do not always work out.  As we headed south today the waves kept building with the forecast for the next several days calling for winds in excess of 20 knots.  So as we fought rolling waves created by 15-20 knot easterly winds we decided to stop in at Ft Lauderdale instead of going on another 30 miles to No Name Harbor in Miami.  It looks like we will hang here in Lake Sylvia for a couple of days until the winds and storms subside then venture back out on Tuesday.  

It kind of feels like we are back on Mark Twain Lake here in Lake Sylvia; boats rafted up for the day, people on assundry floatation devices with assundry drinks, chatting and having fun.  We joined them and Fritz enjoyed cooling down, jumping in the water, clinging to his life ring just like the old days.  Being here makes us remember the all the fun times with Mark Twain and Mariner boating friends.  Hope to be home to the Mariners soon, and hope MTLSA sailors are having a wonderful summer on Mark Twain Lake.  Thanks for the memories! 

Skipper Bob:  A spiral bound booklet giving anchorages along the ICW.  Information on the best anchorages, free docks, bridge and lock restrictions and waterway problems from Troy, NY to Key West, FL. Includes the Hudson, New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway, Delaware and Chesapeake Bays, Potomac River, Atlantic Coastal Waterway, Okeechobee Waterway and the St. John’s River.

July 20, 2012—Vero Beach to Lake Worth Inlet, West Palm Beach

                                                   

Imagine setting your car on cruise control, taking your hands off the wheel, sitting back, relaxing and let it take you where you want to go.  Maybe cars of the future, but with auto pilot on the boat that’s exactly what you can do.  Someone does need to be watching for other boats, obstructions, and shallow spots, but basically the boat drives itself until you’re ready to take the wheel back again.  It’s especially useful when out on the open ocean for long stretches as we were today or on overnight passages.   

Given predicted good weather, SE 5-10 mph winds, and shallowness for this leg on the ICW, we headed off shore.  In fact yesterday was probably the last we’ll see of the ICW for this trip.  Winds this morning were light and not favorable, but eventually increased becoming more easterly and we were able to motor sail for several hours.  It’s nice to have company, albeit mostly fishermen along the coast.  We stayed within a couple of miles from shore thinking maybe the current there would be more favorable. It took about 9.5 hours to make the 62 miles.

Once the boat was docked at New Port Cove Marine Center, fuel tank filled, shore power attached and Fritz kenneled, Dennis and I walked the few blocks to Publix to provision one last time.  It didn’t take long as we’re trying to use up what we have left in the pantry and not lug it back into the house from the boat once home.

If skies are fair, even without much wind, we’re hoping to average 6 knots per hour on these last three days to the Keys.  With favorable winds, the travel time should be shorter.  So we’re off in the morning to No Name Harbor in Miami, Sunday to Rodriguez Key, then be in Marathon by Monday evening providing the weather cooperates.  There should be places we can post along the way.  Thanks for following along!

July 19, 2012—Melbourne to Vero Beach

The Melbourne city dock was already occupied with fishermen when we arrived in the dark with Fritz in the dinghy at 6:00am for our little walk around the public park. It is wonderful for Melbourne to accommodate cruisers with easy access to their facilities.  Convenient trashcans, doggie bags, restrooms, library, restaurant and an easy on and off dinghy dock.  You just don’t find this many places, so kudos to the Melbournites.

Underway by 6:30 south on the ICW we had planned to go to Ft. Pierce Inlet and anchor just off the channel as we had before, but when it heated up we changed plans and pulled into Vero Beach City Marina about ten miles shy of our original destination.  It would make tomorrow a little longer, but let us have another good night’s sleep in the air conditioning.  On the way north a couple had highly recommended their home port, and it was a good one.  Easy on and off the ICW, friendly live aboards and very nice facilities.  Better yet, the walk to the beach was only about a half mile.  After walking the shore, and a margarita shaved ice, Dennis got in the water to scrub the brown mustache off Aurora, and I did what I hope will be our last laundry of the trip.

Fritz frantically enjoyed his favorite Florida past time, chasing lizards in the little park behind the marina.  I say chasing because he very seldom ever catches one, they’re so fast, hide quickly, and drive him crazy, but what fun he has just trying.

July 18, 2012—Rockhouse Anchorage, Ponce de Leon Inlet to Melbourne, Eau Gallie Bridge anchorage

Again we decided to stay on the ICW with unfavorable winds and storms forecast. The temperatures have been wonderfully mild in the upper 80s, and with 5-10 mph winds have kept the heat at bay for pleasant cruising.  It is nice to be back where the dolphins play, swimming beside us the last two days.  Although we have seen many “Slow, No Wake, Manatee Area” signs on both Florida coasts, we encountered our first one today off our starboard.  We saw him only briefly before he dove down and we were glad to avoid hitting this slow-moving sea cow with our spinning prop. 

Encountering storms again today, both while motoring and at anchor, made us realize how fortunate we are to have survived the intensity of the duracho on July 1^st.  One of the aps we have on our phone is a radar showing intensity of the storm with colors and time-lapse indicating the speed at which they are traveling.  During the duracho we were in Atlantic City, and the radar showed a mass of bright red and yellow over much of the coastal states when it first began and an hour and fifteen minutes later it finally dissipated.  With the 70 mph winds it was like being in a hurricane for an hour. Now, like today, when there’s a little blip of red or yellow, but mostly blue and green colors, we know that it is a brief thunderstorm of maybe 10-15 minutes duration.  Every storm we encounter is compared to that worst storm of our lives, pale in comparison, and easily manageable.  Even with the three brief storms which passed through today we still take the same precautions when motoring to have on our life jackets with safety harnesses, and everything secured.  Setting the anchor is extremely important, proven again this evening when a brief wind/thunderstorm came through and the boat next to us wound up 100 yards behind where they had originally anchored.  Although expensive, a good anchor and chain have proven on just this one trip to give a peace of mind well worth the investment.

Melbourne has a wonderful city pier including a dinghy dock, with their library and a small park right on the waterfront.   After the storm passed we took Fritz to shore, enjoyed a walk and the live band playing at the restaurant next to the pier.  Running the generator for a while takes the stuffiness/stickiness out of the cabin and made sleeping without the hatches open comfortable.  Our eighty degree rides may be almost over, with temperatures predicted to go into the nineties over the next few days, but it may be a blessing when we head back out offshore to lessen the chance of thunderstorms.  If we have no weather delays, Capatin says we could almost be home by the time the Olympics begin.  To which Fritz and I say, “Yeah!”   

July 15-16—Charleston, SC overnight to St. Augustine, FL

There were several options for our trip south from Charleston.  We thought a trip outside to Hilton Head would be good.  With the heat we are trying to stay at a marina each night and there was one there.  But the wind forecast was favorable, 5-10 from the southeast, so then we started looking at longer trip options.  What about an overnight?

We decided with the weather forecast an “extended night sail” might be in order.  Our plans were to go to St. Mary’s inlet to Cumberlin Island so Shirla could see the wild horses.  We got underway at 5:50 am Sunday morning from the Mega Dock, but then this timing would put us at Fernandina Beach around 3:00 am, not exactly ideal with no moonlight to find our way into the channel.  A further option was to go all the way to Florida and in at St. Augustine, ETA 10:00a.m. on Monday and with plenty of daylight, no surprises.  So finally that was the plan; the horses will have to remain on the list.  Now the decision would be should we go straight to St. Augustine waypoint or do we curve around staying closer to land.  We kind of split the difference and first set the heading toward Tybee Sound, then when we got close to Tybee changed our heading to St. Mary’s.  As we approached St. Mary’s we would then turn to St. Augustine.  This would keep us only an hour or two from shore just in case.

During the day the winds for awhile were between 45-60 degrees off the nose making decent motor sailing with speeds around 8 knots.  Then the wind would come on the nose so we pulled in the sails and would rock back and forth from the waves coming on the beam.  We could never figure out why the waves were on the beam when the wind was on the nose.  By nightfall the winds were back to 45 degrees with full sails up all night.  With the waypoint plan mentioned we still were off shore maybe 10 miles and even that far off shore we could see glowing light high in the sky from large cities.

For most of the night there were significant thunderstorms farther out to sea so we had a continuous lightening show to the east.  Shirla only encountered one brief shower around 5:00 am.  Our routine was two hour shifts.  I took a nap around 8:00 pm then took the watch until midnight.  Shirla did midnight to 2:00 am, etc.  I went below to take my naps in the cabin and Shirla took hers in the cockpit.  Fritz stayed outside most of the time, and other than his trips to the foredeck for #1 relief he went about 30 hours without an opportunity to go to shore for #2.

All in all it was a good day and night, traveling 212 miles in twenty-eight and a half hours.  We pulled into St. Augustine at 10:00 am and missed the bridge by 5 minutes.  That gave me time to set the fenders and lines for our stay at the marina which is just on the other side of the bridge.  Showers and naps after arrival perked us up for a bike ride to West Marine.  On the way back we stopped at a fruit stand and picked up some fresh peaches, plums and cherries.  Growing up in Southern California I really miss tree ripened fruit.  Fritz had earned several well-deserved long walks on the grassy shores of St. Augustine.

So now with a little more salt in the beard, and our first overnight under our Tilly we are feeling pretty good about cruising.  As I suspected before we set out on this journey our trip home would be quicker than our trip north.  That is proving to be truer than I thought.  Now that we are in Florida the thought is maybe we should get home before the tropical storms start forming.  The weather forecast remains favorable so we will see.

Note:   On the overnight we used about 1¼ gal. of diesel per hour.   

July 17, 2012—St. Augustine, FL to Rockhouse Creek, FL (13mi south of Daytona)

Up this morning with the St. Augustine street sweepers we opted out of sailing offshore with a 50% chance of thunderstorms and unfavorable winds forecast.  It was a good decision, and actually shorter mileage than going to and from the ocean, plus the current was in our favor by a knot.  The bridge tenders seemed to be needing something to do today, and as we approached they opened so quickly we didn’t even have to slow down.  With so few cruisers could they be bored? 

Our quiet Rockhouse Creek anchorage is at Ponce de Leon Inlet and one we stopped in on the way north.  A cool front came through today, and the high temperature was just 85 with an afternoon shower cooling us off even more.  We were dreading the Florida heat, but it has not come, knock on wood, yet.  It should be a good night’s another good night’s sleep without air conditioning.

Sat. July 14, 2012--Dewees Creek, SC to Charleston, SC

Pulling up anchor from the shell bottom in Dewees Creek should have been an easy  cruising maneuver, moving Aurora forward at 10 rpms a hundred feet until the electric windlass pulls in all the anchor chain, dropping it into the well at the bow, and then the anchor comes up last and rests on the bow pulpit.  Remember from yesterday, we’re trying to get to the bridge opening this morning by 6:30, so we’re up, using our “bring up the anchor routine” at 5:15, and it is not wanting to come loose.  We pull forward several times, changing speed and direction, swinging around as the current moves us where it wants.  Finally Dennis yells back something we don’t normally do, “Put it in reverse!” Which I did immediately, and finally the anchor breaks loose and comes up.  As it comes into Dennis’ view he yelled again, “There’s another anchor attached, and a rode wrapped around our chain.”  The extra anchor proved to be old, encrusted with barnacles, and not worth keeping.  It just proves there are no routine maneuvers when you’re cruising, and you just never know what you’ll encounter to test your patience and skills.  We did make it to the bridge opening, and into Charleston City Dock by 7:30a.m. 

Charleston was buzzing with tourists, and we joined them at the City Market, then wandered the historic district until we found the Saturday Farmer’s Market.  It was packed with local vendors of all sorts, selling fruits and vegetables, art, jewelry, and food.  We especially enjoyed the fresh South Carolina peaches, tried a Vietnamese Taco and rehydrated with some fresh-squeezed lemonade.  In the shade of the park there was a local guitarist playing Jimmy Buffet and Barry Manilou.  Dennis inquired if he knew any Stan Rogers and even though he didn’t, we enjoyed his repertoire from our era.      

There was a big fishing tournament, and the docks were busy in the afternoon with guys brining in their catch.  They couldn’t have all been winners, but the boat closest to us seemed to be celebrating like they were until 4:00a.m in the morning.  Guess it’s a fishing thing!

The Intracosatal Waterway Chartbook:  Identical maps as the large paper charts, except in a smaller flip chart version of the Intracoastal Waterway and inlets from the Atlantic.  These charts give names of all ICW bridges, their schedules, and which radio channel to hail the tenders, which varies from state to state.  They also give statute miles beginning with Mile 0 in Norfolk to 1095 in Key Biscayne.

         

July 13—North Myrtle Beach, SC to Dewees Creek, SC on the ICW

Aurora looked lonely at Barefoot Marina’s dock all by herself, but we enjoyed excellent service and the amenities there, especially air conditioning.  On his walk, Fritz picked up some fleas from their grassy area, so after that he walked in the mulch and we asked one of the locals to let the Harbor Master about the problem.  Just another reason why bringing a dog along can be a real hassle.  We followed up with his second flea treatment for the month just in case. 

One of the advantages of traveling during the summer months is that the ICW is not congested with boats, in fact we only met three sailboats during our 90 miles, and a couple of large yachts.   But people in canoes, on wave runners, and wake boards crisscrossed the meandering tea-colored Waccamaw River keeping us company on that twenty-eight-mile leg of the trip.  The skies were filled with fluffy white clouds, shores with moss-draped cypress trees, wildflowers nestled in stumps and mile markers adorned with furry osprey nests.  I no sooner got the camera turned off, and there was another photo op too good to pass up.   The water painted a brown cypress mustache on Aurora, which given the time and calm water can easily be erased by the captain.      

Originally our plan was to go past Georgetown to mile marker 448 Price Creek on the ICW, but then we realized that to anchor in that spot would put us too far from the bridge in Charleston in the morning and unable to get through it by 7:00a.m.  It would be closed from 7-9am, and then the tide would be very low, making some spots on the shallow side for our 5½ foot draft.  Having high tide to our advantage and still daylight we continued on to Dewees Creek mile marker 554 and dropped the anchor in a shell bottom.  The holding was good in light winds, and when a brief shower came through around 12:45a.m. the Delta held Aurora and her contents securely.

We are anticipating a relaxed day in Charleston tomorrow before heading off shore on Sunday.

Waterway Guidebooks:  Our second purchase of navigation tools was Dozier’s Waterway Guidebooks, also divided into regions, which give aerial photos with marked routes, listing for all marinas, distances, bridge and tide tables, detailed mile-by-mile navigational data, maps of favorite ports, hundreds of anchorages and “goin”  ashore information   

July 12—Wrightsville Beach, NC to North Myrtle Beach, SC

It is amazing to us that the days are already so much shorter.  While in New York, just two weeks ago, the sun was up by 5:15, and now only a few days later and few miles farther south, it is barely up by 6:00.  We waited until 5:30 and could see the outline of the channel markers on the dark water before pulling up anchor in Wrightsville Beach.  A few of the clouds lingered from the night before, but the sun finally broke through. 

The evening before we had noticed some foods in the top of the freezer were beginning to thaw, and Dennis tinkered with the unit enough to get it cooling, but thought it probably needed Freon.  Once underway, he called Barefoot Marina where we were planning to dock in Myrtle Beach to see if they had a refrigeration mechanic.  They did, and he was willing to come out at 3:00 when we arrived.  Without any bridge delays, and some current helping us along, we actually docked at 2:15, giving us an afternoon to enjoy the air conditioning, work on the boat, or go exploring.  We made our choices, Dennis needed to clean the boat, and wait for the mechanic, while I needed to explore the boardwalk shops and head for the beach.  In the heat it was a little too far to walk, so my bike provided my transportation.  It was fun to see families on vacation, enjoying shopping at the touristy Myrtle Beach stores, and even more fun to see them enjoying the beach. No denying it, people just love the beach, and I’m right out there with them, bending down looking for that evasive shell, pushing my toes into the warm sand, wading in the shallow water, deeply breathing in the salty air, calmed, comforted and even cheered by the whooshing water.  Revitalized I showered off the sand, and turned my bike boatward at 6:45.  Dennis, bless his heart, had the boat sparkling, the freezer freezing and the dinner simmering.  Bless his little heart. 

Getting up and out early definitely has its benefits!   

About Navigation: 

Mostly having sailed inland waters, and small inland waters at that, shifting through and learning how to use the myriad of available navigation tools has been like taking a college level course without an instructor.  Luckily Dennis has some experience with navigation in open water on charters, but for me it was a whole new medium. Each day after our regular post we will be sharing one of the tools we are learning to use to help us find our way.  Although just beginners, we thought ours would be a good perspective for anyone getting started with cruising. Thanks to all who gave us advice on these navigation tools.  By the way, many can be purchased at significant discounts at any of the boat shows, but wait until you’re ready to cruise in order to get the latest updated versions.   

Paper Charts:  To begin our library we chose to buy paper charts/maps, specifically Maptech Chartkits, which are reproductions of the latest editions of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAH) charts. They are divided into regions giving the GPS lat/long waypoints, magenta tracks between waypoints, bridges table, channel markers, depths, and destination highlights.  These charts are what we use to figure out where we’re going, how we’re going, how long it will take us, and the best route to get there.  Many times they are in the cockpit as we travel so we can reference them when we’re uncertain. 

July 11—Swansboro, NC to Wrightsville Beach, NC

Aqua water and dolphins swimming by the boat, a sure way to tell the Atlantic is close at hand.  Even Fritz wags his tail furiously and starts looking over the side when we call out, “Dolphin friends off the starboard.”  What a friendly dog.

Casper’s Marina was peaceful all night with just a few more showers rolling through without lightening involved.  Cool temperatures and overcast skies accompanied us when we turned southward in the morning.  All was quiet passing through the Camp LaJuene target practice area on the ICW, but we did see remnants of their handiwork.  

The second day of being back on the Intracoastal Waterway, ICW, brought more bridge troubles in the form of two and a half hours of waiting for openings.  Dennis runs our boat at about 6 knots, and if there is current with us that means we’ll do 7 knots, if against us 5 knots.  Then the wind is the other factor, sometimes helping by a knot or more.  At one time we were doing about 8 knots with both wind and current in our favor.  Just missing the first two bridges, we had already waited an hour, and still had two bridges to clear.  Our second to last bridge, Figure Eight Island Bridge was on the hour and half-hour, the last one, Wrightsville Beach, on the hour only.  Just missing the 2:00 opening, then waiting a half-hour we came through Figure Eight at 2:30, but needed to do 8 knots to get to Wrightsville 4 miles away at 3:00.  Maybe we could do it we thought.  Just after passing through Figure Eight though the current changed and we slowed to 6 knots.  Our hopes were dashed.  Although we were in sight of the bridge at 3:00, when we called the bridge operator to see how much she could delay, she politely replied, “Only 5 minutes, and you can’t make it by then.”  With no place to anchor, that’s when the holding pattern began, reversing, 360s, fighting current, avoiding vessels, docks and people in the water for another hour.  We were hoping a commercial or government vessel would call for an opening because they can go through any time, and we could slip through too, but there was none.  It just reinforces why we don’t spend time in casinos…blessed we are, but lucky, we’re definitely not.

Storms rolled through the Wrightsville Beach anchorage until about 10:00, this time accompanied with thunder boomers.  During a break we did manage to take Fritz to shore and get ice.  Even though we got wet a little the night before walking to Piggly Wiggly, we were glad we didn’t need to make the trip in Wrightsville Beach, which is first a mile dinghy ride then a mile walk, and with our luck, just not a trip we should make in a thunderstorm.    

July 9---Coinjock, NC to Bellhaven, NC

Coinjock Marina Restaurant serves up a 32oz prime rib, and boy is it delicious, or so the Captain tells me.  Their deep-fried homemade chips you could make yourself sick on and the green beans were seasoned like my mamas.  I don’t usually talk about food much, but to find such a wonderful restaurant in the middle of nowhere is exceptional and if you’re thinking of cruising this way, put it on your list.  We tried on our way north to stay at the marina, but they were full up.  This time with not many people cruising in the heat, we had prime dockage, one of only four of boats, but the restaurant was packed with locals enjoying the excellent fare.   

An overcast day had kept the intense heat at bay for several hours, and of course leaving at 5:30 didn’t hurt any either.  Described in Dozier’s Waterway Guide as some of the meanest water on the ICW, and in the Cesari blog as “terror to tranquility” (see our May 20 entry) on our northward crossing, Albarmarle Sound can inflict fear upon even seasoned sailors.  With memories lingering we dreaded the crossing, but put on our big sailor Tilleys, mustered our new-found courage, and took it on.  At first southwest winds were around 10 knots and on our nose, giving us some thumps, but nothing like our first crossing.  Then after about 30 minutes winds shifted more westward, allowing us to roll out the genny and have a decent motor sail the rest of the 15 mile crossing into the Alligator River.       

Winds 8-10 knots continued out of the west and a little current all day helped us cross Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, of the loneliest but loveliest, stretches of the trip.  It is amazing to see how the water color changes from FL to New York.  In this man-made canal the water is a beautiful amber color, and people tell us it is from the cypress trees along the shoreline.  It is clear and does not look dirty as in some venues, but has a color unlike we’ve seen.  No eagle or bear sightings, but there were many birds along the way.    

As we neared Bellhaven we could see the thunderclouds forming in the southwest, and NOAH weather channel reported thunderstorms headed our way.  Captain increased the rpms and we anchored just inside the breakwater before the storm came through.  There were some winds, but mostly rain.  We did venture across the choppy water to take Fritz ashore during a break in the downpour before we battened down for the night.

July 10--Bellhaven to Swansboro

Forty percent chance of thunderstorms made us unsure about whether to travel or not, but we decided to go and then anchor along the way if necessary.  It actually turned out to be a great morning, overcast, cool temperatures, calm waters, and a peaceful

18 mile-crossing of the tricky Neuse River.  Passing Oriental, and Portsmouth, then pressed our luck to make eighty-five miles to Swansboro, before we encountered the predicted scattered thunderstorms.  It was only for about the last hour, and we knew the rain was coming when the water up ahead turned to white foam.  Captain weathered the storm and by the time we docked at Casper’s Marina the rain had subsided and the water was calm.  After finishing dinner, we needed milk and bread so grabbed the umbrellas and took out for the half-mile walk to Piggly Wiggly. The store turned out to be more like a mile from the marina, and going was fine, but we could hear the metal roof rattle when the rain began again.  Groceries in backpacks, we just had to take refuge in the Dari-Queen on the return walk to avoid getting drenched by the downpour.  It worked out, the shower passed, our sweet tooth was satisfied, and though a bit soggy, back to Aurora with our provisions safe and sound.            

July 8

Most of you know Dennis is an early riser and when it comes to boat projects, you might say if it needs doing, he just wants to “Get ‘er done!”  no matter what time of the day it might be.  We’ve already had a diver scrape barnacles off the boat once this trip, and felt gunk once again might be slowing our speed.  I know some of you will find this hard to believe, while others who know him, will find it totally believable that at 6:00 a.m. Dennis was in the water with a long handled brush scrubbing furiously at Auroras green slimy bottom so we could be underway by 7:00.  Well, we left Portsmouth at 7:10 and his early effort seemed to have improved our speed.  What a guy!

Back on the ICW means navigating shallow water and timing the bridge openings.  The weekday schedules are given on the flip charts, but weekends leave us clueless.  At 7:50 we encountered our first bridge and when we called for an opening the tender said it would be at 8:30 coordinating with the Great Bridge Lock at 9:00.  Dropping anchor and waiting was our only option.  And as we’re learning to make good use of our down time, Dennis did some polishing on the stainless, while I trimmed up Fritz during our 40 minute stop.  By 9:15 we were through the bridge, in the lock tied securely and waiting for the water to rise at 9:45, it too coordinated with the 10:00 bridge opening on the south end.  On our way north in May the lock was crowded with 20 boats of all sizes, but this time it was just us.  North gates closed at 9:40 and we rose 3 feet to float Aurora up and motor out the south gates at 9:50.  Passing through the south bridge at 10:00, with the next bridge 4 miles away, meant we would have to go 8 knots to get to the next bridge by 10:30.  Captain pushed the motor up to 3,000 rpms, to do the 8, but the engine started to get hot, so he reduced and we motored slowly to get to the 11:00 opening instead. In those 4 hours we had only traveled 13 miles, but that’s just the way it goes on the ICW.

Coinjock, NC was our destination for the day and we made it in by 3:00 after a very hot run in 100+ degree temperatures.  We are looking forward to the next few days with the forecast for high eighties and good winds.  Bellhaven will be our anchorage on Monday night, and is where we had no cell service for several days, so just know our posts may not be possible while on this part of the ICW, but we’ll catch up when we have service again.

Storm update:  Yesterday we discovered that one of the front dodger plastic windows had been scratched and several holes poked through it during the durecho storm in Atlantic City.  It is kind of cloudy and should have been replaced before we left home, but glad I didn’t get to it as it would now have to be replaced again.  Also, yesterday in Virginia we noticed two power boats submerged, and heard before then of other boats on the Chesapeake.  As of two days ago there were still people without power in Virginia.  

Soooo grateful to be able to do a storm update in our blog rather than being in someone else’s!

July 6

If after a visit you didn’t remember anything else about Reedville, VA, I promise you, the ghastly odor emitting from the Omega Protein fish processing plant there is simply unforgettable.  It greeted us as we entered the Cockrell Creek channel, permeated our overnight dockage, and Dennis said it was still with him 10 miles after leaving the port this morning.  This small town is 2^nd only to Dutch Harbor Alaska in the amount of fish landed each year, and they claim the odor at the plant is better after installing a stack scrubber in 2010.  We’re giving them the benefit of the doubt though, saying the extreme heat has probably intensified the problem.  It takes second place only to Baltimore in intense olfactory discomfort we have encountered on this trip.

On the bright side, the people there are extremely friendly and the seafood at the Crazy Crab restaurant perched above the marina excellent.  Unable to raise the harbor master on the radio, we finally called the restaurant on the phone and they assisted us with where to dock when we arrived.  Reedville Marina was definitely a “do-it-yourself” place from fuel to pump out.  We were grateful for the $3.50 price at the pump for diesel, taking on 40 gallon after five days of travel.  The panoramic view of the creek from the restaurant, and later in the evening a spectacular fireworks display somewhat outweighed the plant stench carried in by the earlier breezes.

Our travel time from St. Michaels that morning was 10½ hours with some 5-8 SSW breezes.  We were pleasantly surprised by 88 degree temperatures making the trip from the eastern to western shore of the Chesapeake enjoyable.

July 7

Passing “Mile 0” today meant an end to our Chesapeake travels.  Another sixty-eight mile trip put us in Norfolk by 2:30, a day made shorter by a gift of 10 mph SSW winds and +1 knot of current.  Wind always makes for a cooler day, having to hose down Fritz only once. 

The Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth across the river from Norfolk is our port for tonight.  The harbor master asked when we got here if we came for the concert.  We having no clue replied, “What concert?”  He said, “ You picked a good night, Crosby, Still and Nash, are at the pavilion right there,” pointing 100 yards, off our stern.  He continued, “Furthermore, people have booked in here tonight just to listen to the concert.” 

Wow, what a deal.  Tickets went for $60 each.  For us the price of the marina was $70, and we can hear the whole concert from the boat.  In fact, I hear them getting started now so will shorten this session and go join Dennis in the cockpit.   

Hope you’re having a great Saturday night wherever you are.  Thanks again for following along with us.