July 9---Coinjock, NC to Bellhaven, NC

Coinjock Marina Restaurant serves up a 32oz prime rib, and boy is it delicious, or so the Captain tells me.  Their deep-fried homemade chips you could make yourself sick on and the green beans were seasoned like my mamas.  I don’t usually talk about food much, but to find such a wonderful restaurant in the middle of nowhere is exceptional and if you’re thinking of cruising this way, put it on your list.  We tried on our way north to stay at the marina, but they were full up.  This time with not many people cruising in the heat, we had prime dockage, one of only four of boats, but the restaurant was packed with locals enjoying the excellent fare.   

An overcast day had kept the intense heat at bay for several hours, and of course leaving at 5:30 didn’t hurt any either.  Described in Dozier’s Waterway Guide as some of the meanest water on the ICW, and in the Cesari blog as “terror to tranquility” (see our May 20 entry) on our northward crossing, Albarmarle Sound can inflict fear upon even seasoned sailors.  With memories lingering we dreaded the crossing, but put on our big sailor Tilleys, mustered our new-found courage, and took it on.  At first southwest winds were around 10 knots and on our nose, giving us some thumps, but nothing like our first crossing.  Then after about 30 minutes winds shifted more westward, allowing us to roll out the genny and have a decent motor sail the rest of the 15 mile crossing into the Alligator River.       

Winds 8-10 knots continued out of the west and a little current all day helped us cross Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, of the loneliest but loveliest, stretches of the trip.  It is amazing to see how the water color changes from FL to New York.  In this man-made canal the water is a beautiful amber color, and people tell us it is from the cypress trees along the shoreline.  It is clear and does not look dirty as in some venues, but has a color unlike we’ve seen.  No eagle or bear sightings, but there were many birds along the way.    

As we neared Bellhaven we could see the thunderclouds forming in the southwest, and NOAH weather channel reported thunderstorms headed our way.  Captain increased the rpms and we anchored just inside the breakwater before the storm came through.  There were some winds, but mostly rain.  We did venture across the choppy water to take Fritz ashore during a break in the downpour before we battened down for the night.

July 10--Bellhaven to Swansboro

Forty percent chance of thunderstorms made us unsure about whether to travel or not, but we decided to go and then anchor along the way if necessary.  It actually turned out to be a great morning, overcast, cool temperatures, calm waters, and a peaceful

18 mile-crossing of the tricky Neuse River.  Passing Oriental, and Portsmouth, then pressed our luck to make eighty-five miles to Swansboro, before we encountered the predicted scattered thunderstorms.  It was only for about the last hour, and we knew the rain was coming when the water up ahead turned to white foam.  Captain weathered the storm and by the time we docked at Casper’s Marina the rain had subsided and the water was calm.  After finishing dinner, we needed milk and bread so grabbed the umbrellas and took out for the half-mile walk to Piggly Wiggly. The store turned out to be more like a mile from the marina, and going was fine, but we could hear the metal roof rattle when the rain began again.  Groceries in backpacks, we just had to take refuge in the Dari-Queen on the return walk to avoid getting drenched by the downpour.  It worked out, the shower passed, our sweet tooth was satisfied, and though a bit soggy, back to Aurora with our provisions safe and sound.