Day 15     April 25, 2018     Lake Worth to Ft. Piece

In almost every Florida channel you will find large container and cruise ships transversing accompanied by a pilot boat out ahead, warning of their entrance or exit.  This morning motoring slowly out of the anchorage, seeing the pilot’s flashing lights, but not the ship, Captain slowed Aurora.  AIS describes them as having “limited maneuverability,” i.e.; they’re huge!  When this big girl came creeping around the corner and into view, we were thankful for the pilot’s early morning alert.

Several huge dredgers with long tubes sucking up sand to return back to the eroded beaches were moving parallel to the shore today.  Maybe that’s what need on the Gulf Coast to replenish after storms wash our sandy playground out to sea.

In 2012 we anchored in the Ft. Pierce channel, but unable to purchase fuel there today motored a short way into the Ft. Pierce Marina on the Indian River.  With 237 dockage slips many live aboards on all sizes and shapes of boats call this cruiser-friendly marina home. Walking around downtown and a waterfront market didn’t take long and left us wondering how a mammoth Federal Courthouse came to be there.  Afterwards we wound up back at the marina’s tiki hut using our 20% off coupon for dinner. 

Tomorrow we are planning to do an overnight 170 miles to St. Augustine.  Forgetting to get ice until 8:30 we called and the friendly dock hand quickly agreed to meet Dennis and get us some.  Couldn’t get any better customer service, definitely a 5 star marina!

Nautical Miles: 49.7

Day 14    April 24, 2018     Ft. Lauderdale to Lake Worth 

        

Most bridge openings are on a schedule, while some are on request.  When we came in the Port Everglades inlet on Saturday there were several sizes and shapes of boats on both sides of the bridge waiting patiently for the scheduled 3:30 p.m. opening.   This morning for the 7:00 a.m. it was only Aurora who stopped traffic.  Sure hope she didn’t cause anyone to be a few minutes late to their destination.  She was into the Atlantic early to avoid the predicted rainstorms in the afternoon, with sails up for a short time, then motoring 3 miles off shore avoiding any wave action for the rest of the trip.

 

It was a clear, calm day and arrived to the Lake Worth inlet around 1:00.  What wasn’t calm were the currents where we anchored, and after noticing every boat in the anchorage had their bow facing a different direction decided we were too close for comfort and went a few yards farther into the anchorage.

As predicted the storms came rolling through in the evening cleaning the sea salt off Aurora’s topside, but thankfully didn’t produce any significant lightening.  Even with the shift in current overnight our anchor held us in place for another comfortable night’s rest.

Nautical Miles:  45

Day 12-13     April 22-23    Las Olas Marina, Ft. Lauderdale

There are much worse things than being forced to spend two extra days in Ft. Lauderdale on a boat.  From a cruiser’s perspective it’s probably the best place to be weathered in.  It’s where Dennis repaired Aurora in 2013, after we were struck by lightning in Miami, finding every possible resource at our fingertips plus the largest West Marine in the world. 

Two days in between the rain showers to do laundry, to walk the boardwalk, to clean the boat, and to take a memorable trolley ride!  Our destination was a trolley stop 7 blocks from West Marine, another stop on the way back at Publix, and be returned to the original trolley stop one block from the Marina.  Sounded simple enough.  Right?  After accomplishing two of three, we hopped the trolley at the same stop where 1st one dropped us expecting to return to our point of entry.  All I can say we should have saved our six bucks from the all day pass, and ridden our bikes.  We did have a nice tour of Las Olas Blvd., got off the trolley after realizing it was going the wrong direction, waited for the next one that never came, then wound up walking back to the marina, our backpacks still heavily laden with Publix goods.  Thank goodness for Map Quest and phones to point the way to home.

Nautical Miles: 0  Walking miles: 5

Day 11     April 21, 2018     Rodriguez Key to Ft. Lauderdale, Las Olas Marina

Our custom mattress from Bedmasters in Port Charlotte makes for an awesome night’s rest, and occasionally can even lull us into sleeping in until 7:00.  This was not a morning to lounge, and were up at 5:00 checking the wind and weather forecasts.  Aurora’s cruising speed is around 6 to 6 ½ knots, making Ft. Lauderdale, 71 nautical miles away, a long haul from Rodriguez.  We had plan B, if the weather became a factor, we’d be stopping at No Name Harbor in Miami instead.  Rodriguez Key is an easy in and out wide open anchorage, so leaving at 6:15 without much light was not a problem.  Thus it being an anchorage many use to leave from on their Bahamas crossing.

Wind can be your friend or foe.  East/Northeast at 8-10 it was definitely on our side today.  Our Genoa, the head sail, was unfurled the whole distance helping Aurora average 7.77 knots.  No Name Harbor came into view around 11:30, and the weather although overcast, stayed clear of storms, so we passed it, cleared Government Cut, Miami by 12:30, entering the way point for Port Everglades, Ft. Lauderdale. Our entrance into the channel was smooth, making the 3:30 opening of the 17^th Street Bridge, took on fuel at the City Marina and were docked at Las Olas Marina by 4:00.   This marina is a block from the Ft. Lauderdale Beach, so of course we headed there first to walk and then eat.

Today there were a couple of interesting boats along the way. First was a huge cargo ship, 0.182 nm. long and 148 ft beam, 39 ft. draft, employed by the Maersk Line.  It came out of the Government Cut loaded to the top with containers, making it several stories high and passed a quarter a mile in front of Aurora.  Second boat, the T/S Gunilla, a three masted tall ship, 164 ft. long, 26 ft. beam, was built in 1941 in Sweden, destination Charleston. It is listed as a training ship and appeared to have many young people aboard, although not sure for what kind of training.

   

Nautical Miles:  71.7

 

Day 10     April 20, 2018     Marathon, Boot Key to Rodriguez Key

Leaving today for Rodriguez meant leaving behind our good friends and sailing buddies, Tom, Sandy with furry friend Stormy, on Higher Porpoise, and Suzanne and Mark Stillwell on Dragonfly.  We were glad they cruised along with us this far and wish them even more great days exploring and enjoying the laid back lifestyle of the Keys.

   

With rainy, stormy weather predicted for tomorrow afternoon, our destination for today was, Rodriguez Key, 47 miles north. The sun coming up over the harbor was the signal for us to drop our mooring ball free and slip out of the sea of boats in Boot Key Harbor.  Four other sailboats had the same idea as we all motored quietly and safely through the narrow waterway into Hawk’s Channel and the Atlantic together.  Four of five headed southward, while lone Aurora‘s heading was set northward. 

Water in the Keys is the most beautiful, clear, aquamarine, and the reefs along the northern Keys, keep it shallow, so the bottom, only ten to fifteen feet below, is visible from above.  About half way to Rodriguez Key Dennis spotted, Fair Winds, our friends, Mike and Linda Weins’ sailboat on the AIS coming towards us on our starboard.  About that time we heard Mike hail us on the VHS radio.  Ironically they had just spent the night at Rodriguez after their crossing from the Bahamas, completing their two months cruise there.  It was good as always to recognize friend’s voices on the radio, hear about their adventures in the Bahamas, and finally to bode them farewell and safe travels!

By now the aquamarine water had changed to emerald green dotted with patches of floating brown sea grass, a beautiful combination.  Arriving about 2:15 and setting anchor, one of the first tasks was to clean the engine sea strainer.  Again, being diligent to notice even slight changes in the temperature of the engine can mean saving you major problems.  Dennis thought the engine was running a little hot, and was not surprise to find seaweed and plankton in the strainer.  

We enjoyed the quiet anchorage, but were intrigued by a large fish who circled our boat about 6 times.  Think we might have been in his favorite spot!

Dennis’ pasta sauce was served up for dinner with our new bottle of Cesari wine purchased in Naples, and thinking the Oakes Market will be the destination for a land cruise when we return home, as it was a fine wine we found there!

Nautical Miles traveled:  47

AIS is Automatic Identification System.  It is used to track position, movement, course, and speed of named boats, and is the primary method of collision avoidance for water transport.   

Day 9     April 19, 2018      Little Shark to Marathon, Boot Key

Awakened in the night I carefully ventured out of the cabin expecting a barrage of famous Little Shark bugs, but instead found a clear cloudless night dotted with brilliant diamonds, including the dust of the Milky Way; Just another breath-taking cruising moment.

One lone fisherman appeared around 7:00 a.m. to cast a bit in the Little Shark River, joined by one lone pelican on the channel marker.  All 3 sailboats were southward bound by 7:15, keeping a sharp lookout for crab pots with literally hundreds strung along our route to Marathon.  Stone crab pots can be destructive to a prop if the line happens to wrap around it.  Attached to our props is a blade which is supposed to cut the line attached to the pot preventing damage should we happen to catch one. Tom Wells, on Higher Porpoise, noticed his RPMs slowed down at the 7 mile bridge and when he arrived in the mooring field found a crab pot line dangling from his prop.  He was able to successfully stretch the line across his cutter to remove it, preventing damage to the prop; another problem easily solved, but if left unnoticed could have meant serious consequences.  Good catch Tom!!!

Stopping at Burdines to top off the diesel fuel then continuing on Marathon Boot Key City Marina to successfully pick up a mooring ball, everyone arrived safely without incident. The mooring field looked great considering Hurricane Irma had just plowed through in September 2017 causing massive damage to many boats in the harbor.  It took only 3 months to get the mooring field and marina reopened, and was amazing to see 200 boats already there.  It was easy to pick out the surviving hurricane boats, patched up with plastic, black tape, and plywood. Around the marina there were areas where the damage was evident, but not as bad as expected. Their main building, restrooms, laundry, and dinghy docks were all intact. All in all it looked like the boats took the worst of it. 

After two great days out in the Gulf, a celebration at the Keys Fishery picnic tables overlooking the water was in order.  Small tarpon and sharks swam a few feet away giving us a close up look at the sea life in Marathon.  

A mother manatee with her baby gracefully nosing along the dinghy docks were the highlight of another fabulous day on the water!

Nautical Miles Traveled: 45

Day 8     Wed., April 18, 2018    Naples to Little Shark River Anchorage, Everglades

Our Cruising day routine

·         Up at 5:00

·         Coffee

·         Sunscreen

·         Water bottles filled; Drink 2-3, 20oz. per day to stay hydrated

·         Secure cabin; All doors and cabinets locked, and all loose articles secured

·         Electronics powered up; Radio, Chart plotter, radar, wind instruments, depth, autopilot

·          Fenders removed/stored

·         Captain’s seat in place

·         Life jackets, hat and sunglasses

·         Start engine

·         Remove 5 dock lines

·         Push off from dock

With 66 miles to go before we sleep, leaving the Naples docks at 6:30 was a necessity.  Everyone made sure their fuel and water tanks were topped off and ready to go on Tuesday.  Getting away from the docks can be difficult in winds, but there was none, allowing all of us to depart without incident.

Into the Gulf at 7:00 then locked on a heading to first skirt around Ramono Shoals with the ETA to Little Shark 4:30.  A light wind from the East filled our head sail for a short time, but when it shifted more south, or “on the nose,” as Dennis says, our sailing became just motoring.

 

Its days like this that makes us wonder why we live on land.  Clear sunny skies, 80 degree fresh salt air, aqua green water, dolphins, pelicans, even a turtle graced our journey.  And with no cell service, plenty of time to read, reflect, write, exercise and pray. 

With winds increasing from the southwest the decision was made by Captain Dennis to go into the anchorage instead of anchoring offshore.  Being first into anchorage allowed us to choose anywhere to drop the hook.  First a shallow spot, then deeper water, but when the tide dropped another 3ft., and was to predicted to drop another 1½ ft. we pulled up the 55lb. Rocna and found even deeper water.  Terrible mosquitoes and flies frequent the popular stopover, but our overnight stay was bug-free.  By sunset there were 9 boats of various sizes tucked into the protected water.

Although Naples was nice, it was much nicer to finally be on the water again, ending our day in the remote anchorage blissfully quiet after the busy noise of the city.

Nautical Miles traveled:  66 miles

Day 4-7     Sat.-Tues., April 14-17      Just Naples

Some of you have been to Naples, so forgive me if I share a bit too much information about this lovely town which is only an hour from Punta Gorda by car.  A private jet just flew over us, which happens a minimum of two or three times an hour all day long.  I’m thinking some must commute to work and fly back home in the evening.  Homes along the Naples Bay as you come off the Gulf into the channel are truly amazing, and we’ve heard they tear down multimillion dollar homes along the water to put up larger ones.  Downtown shopping is unequaled anywhere in Florida.  5^th Avenue is famous for a host of one-of-a-kind restaurants, and both novelty and name brand shops.  Landscaping along the street is manicured with stately palm trees and beautiful flower baskets lining the sidewalks.   Then of course there are the cars, the ones you almost never see on the streets of ordinary towns, the Maseratis, Lamborghinis, Jaguars, and Mclerans.  And last, but not least, there are the amazing yachts with a Captain ready at a moment’s notice to take the owners to whatever far away destinations they desire.  It’s truly a unique city and one that is nonstop entertainment for transient boaters.

Instead of being able to leave and go to Little Shark we decided to hold up here until we got a good weather window.  And “good” means calm seas and light winds from the east.  So you ask, “What did you do for four days. Don’t you get bored?”  First, Dennis either runs or walks almost every morning and I do my yoga/stretching on the boat.  We both use exercise bands and I brought weights to do some Les Mills Body pump routines.  Our foldable bikes were used to go to West Marine, WalMart and any other longer errands.  Oak Market is a farm market 0.7 miles from the marina where we found amazing salsa, pastries, fresh produce and oh yes a “Cesari” wine.  Walking to town, the beach, the pier, restaurants, shopping, Naples City Dock where Dragaonfly and Higher Porpoise were staying put us way over on our steps each day. One day was spent cleaning the boat, and doing the much-needed laundry.  Any down time was filled with a variety of reading materials and electronics on board, plus an occasional nap here and there.

On Saturday evening we heard voices on the dock to look out and see a photographer using our boat and the sunset as the backdrop for wedding photos.  Maybe, just maybe, we’ll be able to talk the bride and groom into sending us one.

On Sunday evening a fast-moving storm rolled through with strong winds and some lightening, so we loaded our navigational electronics into the oven.  “What?? The oven??” you ask.  Yes, you read it right, the oven.  It’s been said because of the metal walls this would protect precious equipment in case of lightening striking the boat.  Thankfully we didn’t have to test that theory out that evening.  Word of warning though; just make sure to take everything out before you use the oven! 

Monday, we saw remnants of the northern cold weather front with 70 degrees and high winds.  Tuesday was one of those days which seemed like it might have been ok to leave a safe port to be on the way, but after hearing incoming boater’s comments of rough seas and a churning inlet, confirming our decision to leave on Wednesday instead.

No two days on the boat are ever the same, even in the marina.  So four very different days to relax, explore, regroup, and sometimes do much-needed nothing.

Tomorrow, we’ll lose our internet, and the ability to post for two days as our cruise takes us across the Gulf  for 10 hours to Little Shark anchorage, then another 6 hours to Marathon and Boot Key Harbor on Thursday.  Predictions are for very little wind from the east, so calm seas, and it'll be mostly motoring or motor sailing for Dragonfly, Higher Porpoise and Aurora.  We will bid a due and safe travels to Sea Goose II, and Joan and Joe Thomas, whose plans have changed, and will be headed back north.  Thanks so much for joining us, and sharing your fun stories!   

Day 3-April 13, 2018- Ft. Myers to Naples

Flexibility is important when cruising, and sometimes schedules are scrapped to start over again, totally rethinking when and where to go next. Original plans were to make Marco Island on Friday, then leave there for Little Shark on Saturday, and Marathon on Sunday.  But incoming weather with high winds for the weekend gave serious pause for thought, and everyone agreed to stop in Naples a closer destination instead.  It’s an excellent place to hang out, close to the beach, with the marinas a few short blocks from practically anything you need or want to do.  

So with a shorter than expected cruising day ahead we dropped the mooring ball at 8:00 and scooted out Mantanza Pass, waving at Bill Rissel who was preparing his boat to leave for Punta Gorda.  Back out into the Gulf we found 15-20 knot winds from the east, southeast. Both sails were soon up and the engine off…so nice and quiet, which is always preferred, but not always possible. Although there were some pesky crab pots, with the engine off there’s no worry of them getting caught in the prop which can cause major damage.  So relaxing!  As winds increased and the boat started to heel, it was necessary to reef, (pull in some of the sail) in order to be comfortable and maintain good speed. 

Along the way the winds began shifting slightly to the south pushing Aurora further out into the Gulf, and increasing the distance to get to Naples.  When we were about a mile off course and still a few miles from the Gordon Pass the captain made the decision to restart the engine, bring in the sails, and get back on course.

Our main sail, which has in-mast furling (rolls into the mast), sometimes jams.  This time by wrapping the furling line around the winch and using the winch handle the sail came in perfectly.  It may not seem like a big deal, but when a 60 foot sail gets stuck half way, flopping madly, without any way to get it in or out, it can be a huge problem. 

Afterwards, Dennis commented, “After 7 years you’d think we would know everything about how to do this, but, we’re still learning.”  Which brings me back to Dennis’ favorite saying, “I can teach you to sail in a day, but to master it takes a lifetime.”

Beautiful homes line both the Gulf shore beaches and all along Gordon Pass.  Marine traffic is always heavy in the channel, with a wide variety of boats, some in a very big hurry to make their destinations. Joining us in Naples would be a third boat, our good friends Joe and Joan Thomas, on Sea Goose II, and were waiting in the slip next to us when we arrived at the Naples Yacht Club around 1:20.  Dragonfly and Higher Porpoise docked safely at the newly renovated Naples City Dock a couple of blocks away.  A surprise visit from Glen and Cathy Mayer completed our dinner table of 10 at “The Dock,” a waterside restaurant, where we recounted stories of the day's great sailing.

Nautical Miles Traveled: 29.6

Day 2-April 12, 2018

Winds picked up to about 20 knots over night causing the anchor to dig in, and although they had died down by morning it took more time than usual to retrieve, we were still anchors aweigh by 8:00.  Just a few feet from the ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) we were quickly on our way south to Ft. Myers Beach, passing the outer islands of North Captiva, Captiva and Sanibel, cruised through the narrow, busy and sometimes very shallow Miserable Mile without incident, then under the bridge connecting Sanibel to the mainland, out into the Gulf of Mexico for a few minutes before finally heading into Mantanzas Pass between the island of Ft. Myers Beach and the mainland.  Our plan was for everyone to spend the night in the mooring field there, but with Dragonfly needing to trade their dinghy motor they instead pulled into Salty Sam’s Marina a few hundred yards farther from where Higher Porpoise and Aurora moored.

On our way in we passed Pink Shell Marina and were surprised to discover our friends, Bill and Rosie Rissel’s boat there. After checking in at the mooring field office we walked along water on the Gulf side to find the Rissels enjoying the beautiful day on the beach.  Such a nice surprise to visit and hear about their eventful trip to the Keys.  Bill has a marina story to tell that cannot be topped!

Blessed, fortunate, lucky, call it what you like, but Brandon Mayer from Sweetwater Marina on the Caloosahatche River, thankfully came to the rescue in the evening.  After finishing work at his marina he drove across town, and walked nonchalantly down the dock with a new/used dinghy motor for Stillwells slung over his shoulder.  And if that wasn’t impressive enough, he hopped into the dinghy, pulled the other motor off and got the new one installed and running in about 30 minutes. Even Sue was able to start the new motor unassisted!  Amazing is the only word I can think of to describe this hard working young man, and highly recommend him and Sweetwater Marina.  Of course we all had to celebrate the successful end to our day with a meal together!

Nautical Miles Traveled:  23.6  

Day 1-April 11, 2018

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the things you did.  So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.  Dream.  Discover.  Mark Twain.

Closed up the house and threw off the bowlines by 11:00.  Well, sort of threw off the bowlines, except for one.  We (I won’t say who) forgot to remove one of the six dock lines, and with no clue until feeling the slight tug at the stern, then a pop as the line shredded.   Heads shaking we were hoping it was not how the rest of the day would go.  Luckily, it was not a line we needed until we return and did not slow us down. 

Continuing along the outer rim canal and  into Charlotte Harbor,  we found winds of 7-10 knots on our stern, just enough to put the sails up, wing and wing, but not enough to move us more than 3 knots.  As we crossed the harbor we were hailed by Richard and Peggy Northrup on their sailboat “Wild Oats,” returning home from a trip to the Keys.  An hour into the trip, we gave in, turned on the engine, motor sailed to the ICW and then south into the Useppa Island Anchorage where we would meet up with two other sailboats to spend the night.  With winds predicted from the northeast at 20, we anchored, well-protected southwest of the island, but even so, backed down hard on the anchor to guarantee it would hold well.  

  

Joining us in the anchorage were long-time sailing friends, Tom and Sandy Wells, on “Higher Porpoise,” and Mark and Suzanne Stillwell on “Dragonfly.”  On the way over to our boat for dinner, the Stillwell’s dinghy motor, which I might add they had just had serviced, quit, and Tom towed them over instead.  Now some of you know how important a dinghy is to a sailboat, but for those who do not, it’s so important you don’t leave home on a trip without it in good working order, especially if you are anchoring out, or going to a mooring field, which were both in our plans for cruising to the Keys.  So now what would you do?  “Turn around and go back home? Continue on without a dinghy with only the oars, and hope you don’t need one? Or do you find a way to fix it?”  Our morning destination was Ft. Myers Beach Mooring field, and fortunately we know the owner Brandon Mayer of Sweetwater Marina on the Caloosahatchee River.  After talking with him that evening Mark and Sue decided to continue on and have him actually bring them another motor.

“Expect the unexpected!” one of our favorite cruising sayings.  All in all it was an uneventful beginning to our cruise, but sure there are many unexpected happenings to come.  Although no one likes to have adversity, it is definitely a time for creative problem solving, testing your inner strength, resiliency, tenacity, and nerve, to hopefully learn and grow from the experience.

Nautical Miles traveled: 24.8

Preparations for East Coast 2018

Anticipation is building for our 2018 East Coast trip!  

Our departure date is Wednesday, April 11, and as we prepare to be away for 4 months, our "to do" list is long.  Over the last few months Dennis has refinished all the flooring of the boat as well as performed many checks and maintenance on boat systems, upgrading as needed.  My job has been to replace 90% of the canvas, plus add a full enclosure, making any rough crossings or formidable weather more comfortable.  Although we will most always stick to our motto, "never leave a safe harbor to go out into bad weather." 

This past weekend was a shake down cruise to our Mariner boating club event at Burnt Store Marina, putting Aurora to the test.  First, the air conditioner intakes got clogged and Dennis decided to modify the system to make them easier to unclog. Next, the shower sump quit working, and a new sensor is on it's way to arrive on Tuesday. Grateful for Dennis' mechanical engineering degree and ability to problem solve whenever necessary.  

We feel so blessed to be able to make this trip again.  Please pray for fair winds, calm seas and traveling mercies.  As we witness God's protection on a daily basis, may we always be grateful for His provisions and great love. 

His Mercies are new every morning. Lamentations 3:23



(All posts below are from previous cruises, and you are welcome to read any and all.)