Final Post of the East Coast Cruise (please disregard highlighted words)

Guess we need to wrap up our cruising adventure with a few reflections and final thoughts.  You have been faithful to the blog, we thank you.  You have graciously listened to my attempts to describe what so many of you already know about boating and for your patience I am grateful.  You have given me the chance to find my writing voice, you have been my audience. Cruising has given flight to my thoughts and words that land never could, and your faithfulness motivated me in my feeble attempts to share our adventure.

As you can tell this has been a dramatic journey for me.  In the beginning it was Dennis’ dream to cruise up the east coast and I simply wanted it for him, but it evolved into so much more.  The growth through challenges, the ever-amazing beauty of nature, the triumphs, the fears, the terror to tranquility, the history all wrapped up in an unbelievable journey of heart, soul and mind.  I must say I tried not to bore you with details, but there were times we would disagreed, even yelled (it takes more than marriage savers to save the day) and know we’re not perfect by any means.  Dennis has a wonderful saying though that we both use at the end of the day no matter who’d been right or wrong, it’s simply “I love you……anyway.”  Such words diffused our attitudes when the decision-making was difficult, the space seemed too small, there was nowhere else to go and no one else to talk to.  No doubt about it, cruising tests your marriage, but working together day after day side by side to keep each other going forward, happy and safe creates a bond of trust, tests the strength of the relationship, and stretches it to a new and deeper dimension.  So for those of you who keep politely asking, “Are we still married?”  Yes we are, thank you and stronger for it.  And for those who are thinking of lengthy cruises, get ready for challenges of the heart.

Reflections on the trip: 

Would we do it again?  Probably not for four months, and definitely not living aboard.  We love being active people here in Florida, and missed our walking, running, biking, golfing, swimming and especially spending time with our Mariner friends, an amazing group both on land and water.    

The best thing about the trip?  Being one with nature; the vibrant colors of the water, the amazing sea life, sunsets and sunrises, magnificent trees, the power and majesty of the water.

The scariest part?  Surviving the storm on July 1, in Atlantic City, and for me being assaulted by the wind storm in Lake Sylvia in Ft. Lauderdale July 22.

Biggest disappointment?  Having to use the motor and not being able to sail as much as we hoped.  

Our expenses?  We figured $50 per travel day for fuel, then marinas a couple of times a week ($.85 to $2 per ft,) plus food and sightseeing/entertainment.  We also tried to cook on the boat for most meals, eating out only a couple of times a week.  Groceries were a little more expensive than being at home, but we improvised or did without rather than run to the store for what we needed, so we probably spent less than at home. Laundry was about $8 every two weeks.

Statistics for the trip:  Days out-108.  Miles traveled 3,446.  Diesel fuel used, 535 gal. ($3.95 avg. price per gallon)    

What did we learn? 

1.  Wind is the biggest determining factor in planning where, how and when you go in a sailboat. I know that kind of sounds like “no duh,” but there are other factors involved, like current, waves, and tides which we had not really experienced before this trip.  Then of course, there’s always the weather.  Even considering all the others, wind is still the single most important consideration for a sailboat. 

2.  Always back down on the anchor to make sure it is set. 

3.  Even if the wind is favorable never turn your engine off coming in or going out of an inlet. 

4.  Although Fritz is great company, and a great boat dog, it’s best for everyone if he stays home. Dennis definitely won the hairiest contest, but Fritz won the prize for gaining the most weight, three pounds, on top of the two pounds heavier than the vet liked.  Needless to say, his food rations have been cut by half a cup, and to his delight, he is getting extra-long morning and evening walks.  He’s already lost 1.5 lbs.

5.  No two days are ever the same on the water.

6.  Any time is the time for the unexpected.    

To any of you who are thinking of cruising we say, “Go for it, no matter what anyone says to discourage you because tomorrow is uncertain, all you have for sure is today, and later never comes.”

Thanks to our children who although were at times scared, worried and weren’t even sure we would make it back, still supported and were excited for us.  We love you guys.

To our family, friends and friends of friends who followed with your 5,009 views of the blog we say thanks for your words of support and encouragement.  Our next trip is April and May, 2013 to the Bahamas, so expect another blog.

Till then, take care friends, and may God bless with fair winds wherever your heart takes you.

Friday-Sunday July 27-29—Home in PGI

Aurora’s saltwater coating has been removed and all covers are in place for the first time in four months.  Dennis literally fell down, kissed the ground and we both thanked the Lord for our safe passage home through the darkness on Thursday night. 

Thirty-six hours without much sleep took its toll and we wandered the house on Friday in a stupor, saying, “Look at those dead bugs,” and a little while later, “Oh there’s some more dead bugs,” and, “Did you see those dead ants in the bathroom?”  But never once did one of us approach with the vacuum to try and eliminate them.  Otherwise the house looked good with no leaks or major problems.  We are blessed with neighbors who kept watch for us while we were away and thankfully did not need to call us once during the 3 ½ months.

We had reconnected our phone, internet and cable, so were able to watch the Opening Ceremonies of the XXX Olympics in the evening.  It was a good excuse to let the boat stuff go, sit on the comfy couch and catch several naps.  Saturday we spent time unpacking and trying to get over the wobbling sensation that follows you from the boat onto land.  

During the tropical storm Debbie the water was up over the dock causing our wooden steps to float in the canal but our neighbors rescued and drug them up onto the bank by our dock.  Water soaked they eventually disintegrated so we were only able to carry off essentials from the boat on Friday.  Dennis quickly made a new set of sturdy steps the next morning and we did more unpacking. 

I can finally say today, Sunday, our third day home, that the boat is totally unpacked, but not cleaned.  It can wait a few days till we get some of our energy back.  Dennis has made a long boat list, including changing the oil, fan for the generator, dinghy davit for the dock, having some of the electronics checked out, and finding the leak in the freezer, just to mention a few.  Our next trip is planned for the spring of 2013 to the Bahamas so we have time to work out all bugs before then.

We do have a few more posts with reflections on our favorite things, what we’ve learned and what we’ll do differently next time over the next week or so. 

Before I sign off tonight I want to thank one of our followers for the nice email saying that we had inspired him to finish the work on his boat.  To know sharing our stories has motivated someone else to follow their dream is the ultimate compliment paid to our adventure.    

July 26-27—Boot Key, Marathon to Home

A nice breeze on Wednesday night helped us sleep comfortably, and ready to “take on”  the pesky lobster pots two different people had warned us were in our path to Marco Island on Thursday.  Slipping slowly away from our mooring in the darkness, being watchful of the shallow channel out of Boot Key Harbor, then under the Seven Mile Bridge by 7:00, and finally into the Florida Bay, all four eyes scanning the water for the infamous aggravating pots.  But where are they we kept asking each other?  There were hundreds of small fishing boats with dive flags, but not one pot among them.  For seventy miles to Cape Ramano we watched, ready to dodge, but still no pots.

The sun was pretty oppressive, keeping Fritz and I below except to relieve the Captain for an hour or two here and there.  Our hundred fifty gallon water tanks were three quarters full and provided relief with several cool showers.  Without enough wind to keep the sails up coupled together with the heat, this is really what we had expected once we crossed into Florida, but luckily had avoided until now.  The idea of skipping Marco, a place we dread getting in and out of, and doing an overnight all the way home was becoming very appealing.  The pros were obvious, avoid a second day of merciless heat, skip Marco, be home by 7:00 am Friday morning at high tide, instead of 8:00 pm Friday, low tide, which can make it too shallow for our 5 ½ ft draft, the night, according to NOAAH was to be storm-free, and there would be some moonlight.  The cons, traveling off-shore in unfamiliar waters, the possibility of hard-to-spot abandoned crab pots fouling the prop (very unlikely, as we had only seen a few even in the daylight,) navigating Boca Grande Pass in the dark, which we had never attempted even in the daylight, and being on watch twenty-four hours, in the end were greatly outweighed by the pros.

Our decision made, we waved to Marco Island from afar, and entered our next waypoint, Sanibel Island.  Arriving there ahead of schedule at 11:30pm, Captain entered our last off shore waypoint and navigational challenge, Boca Grande, ETA, 2:00am.  Around 1:00am the moon dipped below the horizon leaving us to make the rest of the passage engulfed in cooling blackness.  Entering the three mile pass very slowly and using the spotlight to identify the unlit channel markers, it took about thirty minutes to motor through and arrive in the familiar waters of Charlotte Harbor.  Even though still three and a half hours from our dock, it felt like we were home.  Now our only challenge was slowing down to give the sun it’s time to rise and light the canals to home.  As with any trip, it’s always good to be home, but sad to think that it’s finally at an end.

Over the next few days we will be posting some additional information, thoughts and feelings on the trip if you want to continue to follow along a little while longer.  If not we appreciate the almost 4,700 views of our blog.  Some of you we know, some of you we don’t, but either way, thanks for coming along on our journey and hope we have given you a just little taste of our adventure.      

July 25--Rodriguez Key to Boot Key Harbor, Marathon

About five years ago Dennis and I got certified to scuba dive.  Although we’ve only made a few dives, we hope to sometime in the future to get our own equipment and make some diving trips.  Right now we pay someone to come in once a month to dive under Aurora and scrap off the barnacles, but hopefully is something eventually we can do ourselves.  Leaving Rodriguez Key this morning we saw many fishing boats heading for off shore water and then later saw various kinds of boats all along the reef with their red dive flags out.  At one point the Coast Guard came calling, “Pan pan, pan pan, pan pan. This is the United States Coast Guard with a report of a diver down, unaccounted for.”   Then they proceeded to give latitude and longitude for the location, asking boaters to keep a sharp look out.  We were not close to their vicinity, so nothing to do, but say a prayer for him to be found.  Thankfully, thirty minutes later they were able to cancel the emergency, saying he had been safely recovered.  Like sailing, diving’s another water activity where safety is paramount.  Glad to have an awesome sailing and diving buddy.        

Not having been on coastal waters much to witness their incredible level of responsibility to the boating community, it has been both enlightening and reassuring to learn, like local police, the Coast Guard is just a quick radio call away to assist in an emergency.  Each and every day from early to late we’ve heard them giving assistance to boaters in trouble and warnings of potential problems on the water.  It is an incredible branch of the military, doing an incredible job of keeping our waters safe and we’ve been grateful for their reassuring presence during our trip.

Tonight we are on a mooring in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon in the Middle Keys, and then head north again in the morning, only this time on the Gulf Coast towards PGI.  We are attempting to make it home from here, weather permitting, in just two days.  Tomorrow night we will be in Marco Island, and Friday home.  They will probably be two long, hot days, plus twice already we’ve been warned of the lobster pots.  Even though the season doesn’t officially open until next week, fishermen are apparently getting them out so all they have to do is bait them when it begins.  Dodging lobster pots should make the last two days of the trip interesting, maybe learn some new sailing techniques?  I can see some of you now grimacing at the thought of the pots because you’ve been there, done that.  Anyway, send good thoughts our way for safe travel, and no lobster pot disaster stories. 

Check out the hairiest contest contestants.  Who has your vote?   

July 24—Ft. Lauderdale to Rodriguez Key

Finally a weather window opened today, and we said good-bye to our safe harbor, Ft. Lauderdale.  Seeking shelter there both coming and going for a total of 6 days, the most of any other, except Jersey City.  Winds were forecast to be only 7 to 8 mph, but when we reached the channel going out to the Atlantic, they were more like 12 to 15 on the bow, creating rough seas.  Finally as we slipped by Miami they calmed and eventually changed to a more easterly direction allowing us to put up the genny, picking up a half knot of speed.  Interestingly, the skies all day were overcast, according to Ft. Lauderdale weather reports because of Sahara dust, keeping the temperature comfortably in the mid 80s.   

You can see the aquamarine water of the Keys from a distance, and it is just amazing that even at shallow depths of fifteen to twenty feet, life on the bottom is crystal clear. It felt very comforting to be back on the water with boats coming and going in every direction with lots of chatter on the radio.     

Once the winds calmed the seventy-five mile passage to Rodriguez Key was quite nice. Our ETA was 6:00, but with the extra half knot we were anchored by 5:00.  We double checked the anchor to make sure it was secure before going ashore at Mandalay Oceanfront Grill and Tiki for dinner.  Great restaurant well worth the mile dinghy ride with excellent food, live music and even a water bowl for Fritz.  Ahhhhh the Keys, not home, but sooo comfortably close.

Tomorrow’s destination is Boot Key, Marathon, only about 40 miles, then if conditions hold, Marco on Thursday, and PGI on Friday. 

Glory be!  Holding our breath…  Can we really be home in time for the start of the Olympics?            

July 22—Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale

Captain said his mistake was stopping at Burger King for lunch, but as he explained his delay in returning, I realized there was much more to it.  First, when he left, he knew there was some rain on the radar and not far away. Second, he went down every isle of mega West Marine, the largest store in the world, uncaring of what was happening outside.  And lastly, he didn’t check the radar even once after he left Fritz and me on the boat.  What was he thinking?

The first time I called he was walking in the pouring rain and couldn’t answer or he might ruin his phone.  He thought if I called again he would know I was in trouble.  I waited, and called again three minutes later, still no answer.  He found shelter in the Embassy Suites lobby and called me back.  I didn’t answer, so he dialed again, this time he heard my desperation, “I can’t talk!  The anchor is dragging and I have to start the engine before we hit the other boats!”  

Before I share another storm tale of terror to tranquility let me back up to the early morning.  The heat in the aft berth drove me out onto the deck to sleep and about 2:00am was awake when I noticed a boat without any lights drifting about 50 yards away.  Concerned, thinking their anchor was not holding, I got out a spotlight and binoculars.  It was scary as they drifted back, back, back, almost into the sea wall of this affluent neighborhood, but then all of a sudden the boat moved forward.  This happened time after time, obviously on purpose, so my fearfulness was replaced with my curiosity.  Using the binoculars I could see it was an older man with a younger boy, probably dad and son, probably fishing, so no need for alarm.  Eventually they left, and I returned to my storm-free night’s rest. 

Morning dawned with overcast skies, no sunrise and the radar showing some patchy green and blue headed north for Ft. Lauderdale.  Thinking it was just rain showers Dennis left about 10:00, dinghyed a couple miles down the canals to where he could tie up and walk another mile and a half to West Marine.  He was looking for a fan to fix the ongoing problem of the overheating generator. 

After he left, I took a large blue tarp and secured it with bungees over the cabin so once the rain started we could keep the hatches open.  Working down below about 11:45, I heard the rain pattering on the cabin top.  Soon after I looked at the radar and it now showed some yellow and red tracking towards Lake Sylvia.  I was still not concerned until I heard the wind starting to blow and Aurora began to pitch about, immediately wishing Dennis was back on board. As the winds began to increase, I remembered back to yesterday when we anchored, that we hadn’t really backed down on the chain as well as we usually do, and that we had only put out 80 ft of chain.  Only then did I begin to think of the possibility, of the anchor not holding.   Wind speeds increased and blowing rain kept me from seeing if the anchor chain was taut.  The tarp began to whip about, and after about 10 minutes of wind abuse came loose on one side.  I went to the top of the cabin steps and poked my head out several times, but the blowing rain, and tarp whipping around hindered my sight of our position.   I began to look out the side hatches and the position of the boat in relation to things along the shore.  Off to port was a 60ft blue and white yacht, off starboard was the only other sailboat in the anchorage. We were swinging side to side, still difficult to tell, but I knew we were probably slipping.  It was probably around 12:15 when this dawned on me, and I began to consider the scenarios.  First I knew if the anchor was dragging we might not go too far and also knew the lake is about 400 long by 300 yards wide giving room for some movement.  On the port at 50 ft was the blue yacht tied to a seawall, anchored off our stern about 100 yards back were two 60 foot motor yachts rafted together.  Then there were two other 25 ft power boats motoring about.

Once I knew we were indeed moving, I tried to keep a close watch on the positions of all the other boats, and I also knew we had some room to drift before we were in big trouble.  With the winds now reaching about 20 mph and horizontal rains Aurora began to slip backwards quickly.  I started to pray for the winds to decrease so we wouldn’t drift any further, and also began thinking of what I could do.  Dennis and I had talked in length about the anchor rode getting wrapped around the prop so I was very reluctant to start the engine and go forward towards the chain, but knew ultimately that is what I might have to do.  I kept going outside and assessing and realized we were getting closer and closer to the two yachts behind, and further from the blue yacht and sailboat where we had been. 

By this time I am soaked to the skin and the two boats motoring around had been by at least 3 times.  I know they realized Aurora was dragging, but not sure if they knew I was by myself trying to figure out what to do.  They were doing their best to stay out of harm’s way.  I knew by now the winds were not going to stop in time to keep us from hitting the two boats now off the stern by about 40 ft.  They realized it too and had sent someone out on the bow to fend us off.  It was time to stop praying, and use my knowledge to do something about the situation. I had already called Dennis twice.  I grabbed my raincoat, the engine key, turned on the instruments and headed for the cockpit when the phone rang, and I yelled to him my intentions.  He confirmed to start the engine. 

The rain was pelting me, and it was difficult to get the key seated.  Finally it turned and the engine purred.  Now only about 30 ft from the two boats, I put it in forward increasing to 2200 rpms until I could go forward 50 feet, fighting the wheel to keep going forward, not sideways, then put it in neutral for a few seconds.  As soon as I decreased speed or put it in neutral the boat would immediately slide backwards again, and if I didn’t keep the bow pointing into the wind even with speed I would slip sideways.  I went forward, then slid backward or sideways about 5 times.  Each time brought more relief as I realized if the chain was going to fowl the prop it would have already done so.  At one point I waved off one of the power boats as he came close and was afraid I might be blown into him.  He turned and motored off in a different direction.  There were four lightening strikes during this time, one of which flashed red.  Finally the winds subsided to about 10 mph, and was surprised when I heard Dennis around 1:00 yelling behind me, “Stop the boat!”   So relieved to have the captain back and in charge, I gladly stopped.   My forty minutes of terror were finally at an end.  Even though a gentle rain replaced the storm, I wasn’t tranquil for a long time.    

July 23—Los Olas Marina, Ft. Lauderdale

Storms were forecast again for today, so Dennis found us a marina about a half mile from Lake Sylvia for 85 cents a foot.  What a deal!  He kicked himself for not finding it sooner, especially with my ordeal yesterday.  The “priceless part” it is only two blocks from the beach!  I made three trips there, the last time for yogurt and do finally feel truly tranquil.  Tomorrow we’re offshore, hopefully storm-free to Rodriguez Key, then Marathon on Wednesday.  It’s hard knowing there at least 5 or 6 more days on the boat when we’re only 2 ½ hours from home, but good to know we’ll be there soon!  Please pray for fair winds for our last few days. 

July 21—Lake Worth Inlet, West Palm Beach to Ft. Lauderdale

Our dismount today from the New Port Cove Marina slip was a bit tricky with winds on port blowing our starboard side into the dock finger.  Captain attached two lines on dock post on the port which I held tightly as he reversed.  A fisherman came to our rescue when Dennis asked him earlier to be ready to fend us off of a pretty little trawler with beautiful but fragile wood railings in the slip to our starboard.  The two line system worked great holding starboard close to the post until Dennis reversed to get us out of the slip without drifting into the other boat.  One of the biggest challenges of the trip has been learning how to maneuver Aurora in and out of slips when there is wind.  It is finally getting easier, and a little less scary, but I must say anchoring, even in wind is never as challenging as the marinas.      

The best laid plans do not always work out.  As we headed south today the waves kept building with the forecast for the next several days calling for winds in excess of 20 knots.  So as we fought rolling waves created by 15-20 knot easterly winds we decided to stop in at Ft Lauderdale instead of going on another 30 miles to No Name Harbor in Miami.  It looks like we will hang here in Lake Sylvia for a couple of days until the winds and storms subside then venture back out on Tuesday.  

It kind of feels like we are back on Mark Twain Lake here in Lake Sylvia; boats rafted up for the day, people on assundry floatation devices with assundry drinks, chatting and having fun.  We joined them and Fritz enjoyed cooling down, jumping in the water, clinging to his life ring just like the old days.  Being here makes us remember the all the fun times with Mark Twain and Mariner boating friends.  Hope to be home to the Mariners soon, and hope MTLSA sailors are having a wonderful summer on Mark Twain Lake.  Thanks for the memories! 

Skipper Bob:  A spiral bound booklet giving anchorages along the ICW.  Information on the best anchorages, free docks, bridge and lock restrictions and waterway problems from Troy, NY to Key West, FL. Includes the Hudson, New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway, Delaware and Chesapeake Bays, Potomac River, Atlantic Coastal Waterway, Okeechobee Waterway and the St. John’s River.