July 24—Ft. Lauderdale to Rodriguez Key

Finally a weather window opened today, and we said good-bye to our safe harbor, Ft. Lauderdale.  Seeking shelter there both coming and going for a total of 6 days, the most of any other, except Jersey City.  Winds were forecast to be only 7 to 8 mph, but when we reached the channel going out to the Atlantic, they were more like 12 to 15 on the bow, creating rough seas.  Finally as we slipped by Miami they calmed and eventually changed to a more easterly direction allowing us to put up the genny, picking up a half knot of speed.  Interestingly, the skies all day were overcast, according to Ft. Lauderdale weather reports because of Sahara dust, keeping the temperature comfortably in the mid 80s.   

You can see the aquamarine water of the Keys from a distance, and it is just amazing that even at shallow depths of fifteen to twenty feet, life on the bottom is crystal clear. It felt very comforting to be back on the water with boats coming and going in every direction with lots of chatter on the radio.     

Once the winds calmed the seventy-five mile passage to Rodriguez Key was quite nice. Our ETA was 6:00, but with the extra half knot we were anchored by 5:00.  We double checked the anchor to make sure it was secure before going ashore at Mandalay Oceanfront Grill and Tiki for dinner.  Great restaurant well worth the mile dinghy ride with excellent food, live music and even a water bowl for Fritz.  Ahhhhh the Keys, not home, but sooo comfortably close.

Tomorrow’s destination is Boot Key, Marathon, only about 40 miles, then if conditions hold, Marco on Thursday, and PGI on Friday. 

Glory be!  Holding our breath…  Can we really be home in time for the start of the Olympics?            

July 22—Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale

Captain said his mistake was stopping at Burger King for lunch, but as he explained his delay in returning, I realized there was much more to it.  First, when he left, he knew there was some rain on the radar and not far away. Second, he went down every isle of mega West Marine, the largest store in the world, uncaring of what was happening outside.  And lastly, he didn’t check the radar even once after he left Fritz and me on the boat.  What was he thinking?

The first time I called he was walking in the pouring rain and couldn’t answer or he might ruin his phone.  He thought if I called again he would know I was in trouble.  I waited, and called again three minutes later, still no answer.  He found shelter in the Embassy Suites lobby and called me back.  I didn’t answer, so he dialed again, this time he heard my desperation, “I can’t talk!  The anchor is dragging and I have to start the engine before we hit the other boats!”  

Before I share another storm tale of terror to tranquility let me back up to the early morning.  The heat in the aft berth drove me out onto the deck to sleep and about 2:00am was awake when I noticed a boat without any lights drifting about 50 yards away.  Concerned, thinking their anchor was not holding, I got out a spotlight and binoculars.  It was scary as they drifted back, back, back, almost into the sea wall of this affluent neighborhood, but then all of a sudden the boat moved forward.  This happened time after time, obviously on purpose, so my fearfulness was replaced with my curiosity.  Using the binoculars I could see it was an older man with a younger boy, probably dad and son, probably fishing, so no need for alarm.  Eventually they left, and I returned to my storm-free night’s rest. 

Morning dawned with overcast skies, no sunrise and the radar showing some patchy green and blue headed north for Ft. Lauderdale.  Thinking it was just rain showers Dennis left about 10:00, dinghyed a couple miles down the canals to where he could tie up and walk another mile and a half to West Marine.  He was looking for a fan to fix the ongoing problem of the overheating generator. 

After he left, I took a large blue tarp and secured it with bungees over the cabin so once the rain started we could keep the hatches open.  Working down below about 11:45, I heard the rain pattering on the cabin top.  Soon after I looked at the radar and it now showed some yellow and red tracking towards Lake Sylvia.  I was still not concerned until I heard the wind starting to blow and Aurora began to pitch about, immediately wishing Dennis was back on board. As the winds began to increase, I remembered back to yesterday when we anchored, that we hadn’t really backed down on the chain as well as we usually do, and that we had only put out 80 ft of chain.  Only then did I begin to think of the possibility, of the anchor not holding.   Wind speeds increased and blowing rain kept me from seeing if the anchor chain was taut.  The tarp began to whip about, and after about 10 minutes of wind abuse came loose on one side.  I went to the top of the cabin steps and poked my head out several times, but the blowing rain, and tarp whipping around hindered my sight of our position.   I began to look out the side hatches and the position of the boat in relation to things along the shore.  Off to port was a 60ft blue and white yacht, off starboard was the only other sailboat in the anchorage. We were swinging side to side, still difficult to tell, but I knew we were probably slipping.  It was probably around 12:15 when this dawned on me, and I began to consider the scenarios.  First I knew if the anchor was dragging we might not go too far and also knew the lake is about 400 long by 300 yards wide giving room for some movement.  On the port at 50 ft was the blue yacht tied to a seawall, anchored off our stern about 100 yards back were two 60 foot motor yachts rafted together.  Then there were two other 25 ft power boats motoring about.

Once I knew we were indeed moving, I tried to keep a close watch on the positions of all the other boats, and I also knew we had some room to drift before we were in big trouble.  With the winds now reaching about 20 mph and horizontal rains Aurora began to slip backwards quickly.  I started to pray for the winds to decrease so we wouldn’t drift any further, and also began thinking of what I could do.  Dennis and I had talked in length about the anchor rode getting wrapped around the prop so I was very reluctant to start the engine and go forward towards the chain, but knew ultimately that is what I might have to do.  I kept going outside and assessing and realized we were getting closer and closer to the two yachts behind, and further from the blue yacht and sailboat where we had been. 

By this time I am soaked to the skin and the two boats motoring around had been by at least 3 times.  I know they realized Aurora was dragging, but not sure if they knew I was by myself trying to figure out what to do.  They were doing their best to stay out of harm’s way.  I knew by now the winds were not going to stop in time to keep us from hitting the two boats now off the stern by about 40 ft.  They realized it too and had sent someone out on the bow to fend us off.  It was time to stop praying, and use my knowledge to do something about the situation. I had already called Dennis twice.  I grabbed my raincoat, the engine key, turned on the instruments and headed for the cockpit when the phone rang, and I yelled to him my intentions.  He confirmed to start the engine. 

The rain was pelting me, and it was difficult to get the key seated.  Finally it turned and the engine purred.  Now only about 30 ft from the two boats, I put it in forward increasing to 2200 rpms until I could go forward 50 feet, fighting the wheel to keep going forward, not sideways, then put it in neutral for a few seconds.  As soon as I decreased speed or put it in neutral the boat would immediately slide backwards again, and if I didn’t keep the bow pointing into the wind even with speed I would slip sideways.  I went forward, then slid backward or sideways about 5 times.  Each time brought more relief as I realized if the chain was going to fowl the prop it would have already done so.  At one point I waved off one of the power boats as he came close and was afraid I might be blown into him.  He turned and motored off in a different direction.  There were four lightening strikes during this time, one of which flashed red.  Finally the winds subsided to about 10 mph, and was surprised when I heard Dennis around 1:00 yelling behind me, “Stop the boat!”   So relieved to have the captain back and in charge, I gladly stopped.   My forty minutes of terror were finally at an end.  Even though a gentle rain replaced the storm, I wasn’t tranquil for a long time.    

July 23—Los Olas Marina, Ft. Lauderdale

Storms were forecast again for today, so Dennis found us a marina about a half mile from Lake Sylvia for 85 cents a foot.  What a deal!  He kicked himself for not finding it sooner, especially with my ordeal yesterday.  The “priceless part” it is only two blocks from the beach!  I made three trips there, the last time for yogurt and do finally feel truly tranquil.  Tomorrow we’re offshore, hopefully storm-free to Rodriguez Key, then Marathon on Wednesday.  It’s hard knowing there at least 5 or 6 more days on the boat when we’re only 2 ½ hours from home, but good to know we’ll be there soon!  Please pray for fair winds for our last few days. 

July 21—Lake Worth Inlet, West Palm Beach to Ft. Lauderdale

Our dismount today from the New Port Cove Marina slip was a bit tricky with winds on port blowing our starboard side into the dock finger.  Captain attached two lines on dock post on the port which I held tightly as he reversed.  A fisherman came to our rescue when Dennis asked him earlier to be ready to fend us off of a pretty little trawler with beautiful but fragile wood railings in the slip to our starboard.  The two line system worked great holding starboard close to the post until Dennis reversed to get us out of the slip without drifting into the other boat.  One of the biggest challenges of the trip has been learning how to maneuver Aurora in and out of slips when there is wind.  It is finally getting easier, and a little less scary, but I must say anchoring, even in wind is never as challenging as the marinas.      

The best laid plans do not always work out.  As we headed south today the waves kept building with the forecast for the next several days calling for winds in excess of 20 knots.  So as we fought rolling waves created by 15-20 knot easterly winds we decided to stop in at Ft Lauderdale instead of going on another 30 miles to No Name Harbor in Miami.  It looks like we will hang here in Lake Sylvia for a couple of days until the winds and storms subside then venture back out on Tuesday.  

It kind of feels like we are back on Mark Twain Lake here in Lake Sylvia; boats rafted up for the day, people on assundry floatation devices with assundry drinks, chatting and having fun.  We joined them and Fritz enjoyed cooling down, jumping in the water, clinging to his life ring just like the old days.  Being here makes us remember the all the fun times with Mark Twain and Mariner boating friends.  Hope to be home to the Mariners soon, and hope MTLSA sailors are having a wonderful summer on Mark Twain Lake.  Thanks for the memories! 

Skipper Bob:  A spiral bound booklet giving anchorages along the ICW.  Information on the best anchorages, free docks, bridge and lock restrictions and waterway problems from Troy, NY to Key West, FL. Includes the Hudson, New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway, Delaware and Chesapeake Bays, Potomac River, Atlantic Coastal Waterway, Okeechobee Waterway and the St. John’s River.

July 20, 2012—Vero Beach to Lake Worth Inlet, West Palm Beach

                                                   

Imagine setting your car on cruise control, taking your hands off the wheel, sitting back, relaxing and let it take you where you want to go.  Maybe cars of the future, but with auto pilot on the boat that’s exactly what you can do.  Someone does need to be watching for other boats, obstructions, and shallow spots, but basically the boat drives itself until you’re ready to take the wheel back again.  It’s especially useful when out on the open ocean for long stretches as we were today or on overnight passages.   

Given predicted good weather, SE 5-10 mph winds, and shallowness for this leg on the ICW, we headed off shore.  In fact yesterday was probably the last we’ll see of the ICW for this trip.  Winds this morning were light and not favorable, but eventually increased becoming more easterly and we were able to motor sail for several hours.  It’s nice to have company, albeit mostly fishermen along the coast.  We stayed within a couple of miles from shore thinking maybe the current there would be more favorable. It took about 9.5 hours to make the 62 miles.

Once the boat was docked at New Port Cove Marine Center, fuel tank filled, shore power attached and Fritz kenneled, Dennis and I walked the few blocks to Publix to provision one last time.  It didn’t take long as we’re trying to use up what we have left in the pantry and not lug it back into the house from the boat once home.

If skies are fair, even without much wind, we’re hoping to average 6 knots per hour on these last three days to the Keys.  With favorable winds, the travel time should be shorter.  So we’re off in the morning to No Name Harbor in Miami, Sunday to Rodriguez Key, then be in Marathon by Monday evening providing the weather cooperates.  There should be places we can post along the way.  Thanks for following along!

July 19, 2012—Melbourne to Vero Beach

The Melbourne city dock was already occupied with fishermen when we arrived in the dark with Fritz in the dinghy at 6:00am for our little walk around the public park. It is wonderful for Melbourne to accommodate cruisers with easy access to their facilities.  Convenient trashcans, doggie bags, restrooms, library, restaurant and an easy on and off dinghy dock.  You just don’t find this many places, so kudos to the Melbournites.

Underway by 6:30 south on the ICW we had planned to go to Ft. Pierce Inlet and anchor just off the channel as we had before, but when it heated up we changed plans and pulled into Vero Beach City Marina about ten miles shy of our original destination.  It would make tomorrow a little longer, but let us have another good night’s sleep in the air conditioning.  On the way north a couple had highly recommended their home port, and it was a good one.  Easy on and off the ICW, friendly live aboards and very nice facilities.  Better yet, the walk to the beach was only about a half mile.  After walking the shore, and a margarita shaved ice, Dennis got in the water to scrub the brown mustache off Aurora, and I did what I hope will be our last laundry of the trip.

Fritz frantically enjoyed his favorite Florida past time, chasing lizards in the little park behind the marina.  I say chasing because he very seldom ever catches one, they’re so fast, hide quickly, and drive him crazy, but what fun he has just trying.

July 18, 2012—Rockhouse Anchorage, Ponce de Leon Inlet to Melbourne, Eau Gallie Bridge anchorage

Again we decided to stay on the ICW with unfavorable winds and storms forecast. The temperatures have been wonderfully mild in the upper 80s, and with 5-10 mph winds have kept the heat at bay for pleasant cruising.  It is nice to be back where the dolphins play, swimming beside us the last two days.  Although we have seen many “Slow, No Wake, Manatee Area” signs on both Florida coasts, we encountered our first one today off our starboard.  We saw him only briefly before he dove down and we were glad to avoid hitting this slow-moving sea cow with our spinning prop. 

Encountering storms again today, both while motoring and at anchor, made us realize how fortunate we are to have survived the intensity of the duracho on July 1^st.  One of the aps we have on our phone is a radar showing intensity of the storm with colors and time-lapse indicating the speed at which they are traveling.  During the duracho we were in Atlantic City, and the radar showed a mass of bright red and yellow over much of the coastal states when it first began and an hour and fifteen minutes later it finally dissipated.  With the 70 mph winds it was like being in a hurricane for an hour. Now, like today, when there’s a little blip of red or yellow, but mostly blue and green colors, we know that it is a brief thunderstorm of maybe 10-15 minutes duration.  Every storm we encounter is compared to that worst storm of our lives, pale in comparison, and easily manageable.  Even with the three brief storms which passed through today we still take the same precautions when motoring to have on our life jackets with safety harnesses, and everything secured.  Setting the anchor is extremely important, proven again this evening when a brief wind/thunderstorm came through and the boat next to us wound up 100 yards behind where they had originally anchored.  Although expensive, a good anchor and chain have proven on just this one trip to give a peace of mind well worth the investment.

Melbourne has a wonderful city pier including a dinghy dock, with their library and a small park right on the waterfront.   After the storm passed we took Fritz to shore, enjoyed a walk and the live band playing at the restaurant next to the pier.  Running the generator for a while takes the stuffiness/stickiness out of the cabin and made sleeping without the hatches open comfortable.  Our eighty degree rides may be almost over, with temperatures predicted to go into the nineties over the next few days, but it may be a blessing when we head back out offshore to lessen the chance of thunderstorms.  If we have no weather delays, Capatin says we could almost be home by the time the Olympics begin.  To which Fritz and I say, “Yeah!”   

July 15-16—Charleston, SC overnight to St. Augustine, FL

There were several options for our trip south from Charleston.  We thought a trip outside to Hilton Head would be good.  With the heat we are trying to stay at a marina each night and there was one there.  But the wind forecast was favorable, 5-10 from the southeast, so then we started looking at longer trip options.  What about an overnight?

We decided with the weather forecast an “extended night sail” might be in order.  Our plans were to go to St. Mary’s inlet to Cumberlin Island so Shirla could see the wild horses.  We got underway at 5:50 am Sunday morning from the Mega Dock, but then this timing would put us at Fernandina Beach around 3:00 am, not exactly ideal with no moonlight to find our way into the channel.  A further option was to go all the way to Florida and in at St. Augustine, ETA 10:00a.m. on Monday and with plenty of daylight, no surprises.  So finally that was the plan; the horses will have to remain on the list.  Now the decision would be should we go straight to St. Augustine waypoint or do we curve around staying closer to land.  We kind of split the difference and first set the heading toward Tybee Sound, then when we got close to Tybee changed our heading to St. Mary’s.  As we approached St. Mary’s we would then turn to St. Augustine.  This would keep us only an hour or two from shore just in case.

During the day the winds for awhile were between 45-60 degrees off the nose making decent motor sailing with speeds around 8 knots.  Then the wind would come on the nose so we pulled in the sails and would rock back and forth from the waves coming on the beam.  We could never figure out why the waves were on the beam when the wind was on the nose.  By nightfall the winds were back to 45 degrees with full sails up all night.  With the waypoint plan mentioned we still were off shore maybe 10 miles and even that far off shore we could see glowing light high in the sky from large cities.

For most of the night there were significant thunderstorms farther out to sea so we had a continuous lightening show to the east.  Shirla only encountered one brief shower around 5:00 am.  Our routine was two hour shifts.  I took a nap around 8:00 pm then took the watch until midnight.  Shirla did midnight to 2:00 am, etc.  I went below to take my naps in the cabin and Shirla took hers in the cockpit.  Fritz stayed outside most of the time, and other than his trips to the foredeck for #1 relief he went about 30 hours without an opportunity to go to shore for #2.

All in all it was a good day and night, traveling 212 miles in twenty-eight and a half hours.  We pulled into St. Augustine at 10:00 am and missed the bridge by 5 minutes.  That gave me time to set the fenders and lines for our stay at the marina which is just on the other side of the bridge.  Showers and naps after arrival perked us up for a bike ride to West Marine.  On the way back we stopped at a fruit stand and picked up some fresh peaches, plums and cherries.  Growing up in Southern California I really miss tree ripened fruit.  Fritz had earned several well-deserved long walks on the grassy shores of St. Augustine.

So now with a little more salt in the beard, and our first overnight under our Tilly we are feeling pretty good about cruising.  As I suspected before we set out on this journey our trip home would be quicker than our trip north.  That is proving to be truer than I thought.  Now that we are in Florida the thought is maybe we should get home before the tropical storms start forming.  The weather forecast remains favorable so we will see.

Note:   On the overnight we used about 1¼ gal. of diesel per hour.   

July 17, 2012—St. Augustine, FL to Rockhouse Creek, FL (13mi south of Daytona)

Up this morning with the St. Augustine street sweepers we opted out of sailing offshore with a 50% chance of thunderstorms and unfavorable winds forecast.  It was a good decision, and actually shorter mileage than going to and from the ocean, plus the current was in our favor by a knot.  The bridge tenders seemed to be needing something to do today, and as we approached they opened so quickly we didn’t even have to slow down.  With so few cruisers could they be bored? 

Our quiet Rockhouse Creek anchorage is at Ponce de Leon Inlet and one we stopped in on the way north.  A cool front came through today, and the high temperature was just 85 with an afternoon shower cooling us off even more.  We were dreading the Florida heat, but it has not come, knock on wood, yet.  It should be a good night’s another good night’s sleep without air conditioning.