Sat. July 14, 2012--Dewees Creek, SC to Charleston, SC

Pulling up anchor from the shell bottom in Dewees Creek should have been an easy  cruising maneuver, moving Aurora forward at 10 rpms a hundred feet until the electric windlass pulls in all the anchor chain, dropping it into the well at the bow, and then the anchor comes up last and rests on the bow pulpit.  Remember from yesterday, we’re trying to get to the bridge opening this morning by 6:30, so we’re up, using our “bring up the anchor routine” at 5:15, and it is not wanting to come loose.  We pull forward several times, changing speed and direction, swinging around as the current moves us where it wants.  Finally Dennis yells back something we don’t normally do, “Put it in reverse!” Which I did immediately, and finally the anchor breaks loose and comes up.  As it comes into Dennis’ view he yelled again, “There’s another anchor attached, and a rode wrapped around our chain.”  The extra anchor proved to be old, encrusted with barnacles, and not worth keeping.  It just proves there are no routine maneuvers when you’re cruising, and you just never know what you’ll encounter to test your patience and skills.  We did make it to the bridge opening, and into Charleston City Dock by 7:30a.m. 

Charleston was buzzing with tourists, and we joined them at the City Market, then wandered the historic district until we found the Saturday Farmer’s Market.  It was packed with local vendors of all sorts, selling fruits and vegetables, art, jewelry, and food.  We especially enjoyed the fresh South Carolina peaches, tried a Vietnamese Taco and rehydrated with some fresh-squeezed lemonade.  In the shade of the park there was a local guitarist playing Jimmy Buffet and Barry Manilou.  Dennis inquired if he knew any Stan Rogers and even though he didn’t, we enjoyed his repertoire from our era.      

There was a big fishing tournament, and the docks were busy in the afternoon with guys brining in their catch.  They couldn’t have all been winners, but the boat closest to us seemed to be celebrating like they were until 4:00a.m in the morning.  Guess it’s a fishing thing!

The Intracosatal Waterway Chartbook:  Identical maps as the large paper charts, except in a smaller flip chart version of the Intracoastal Waterway and inlets from the Atlantic.  These charts give names of all ICW bridges, their schedules, and which radio channel to hail the tenders, which varies from state to state.  They also give statute miles beginning with Mile 0 in Norfolk to 1095 in Key Biscayne.

         

July 13—North Myrtle Beach, SC to Dewees Creek, SC on the ICW

Aurora looked lonely at Barefoot Marina’s dock all by herself, but we enjoyed excellent service and the amenities there, especially air conditioning.  On his walk, Fritz picked up some fleas from their grassy area, so after that he walked in the mulch and we asked one of the locals to let the Harbor Master about the problem.  Just another reason why bringing a dog along can be a real hassle.  We followed up with his second flea treatment for the month just in case. 

One of the advantages of traveling during the summer months is that the ICW is not congested with boats, in fact we only met three sailboats during our 90 miles, and a couple of large yachts.   But people in canoes, on wave runners, and wake boards crisscrossed the meandering tea-colored Waccamaw River keeping us company on that twenty-eight-mile leg of the trip.  The skies were filled with fluffy white clouds, shores with moss-draped cypress trees, wildflowers nestled in stumps and mile markers adorned with furry osprey nests.  I no sooner got the camera turned off, and there was another photo op too good to pass up.   The water painted a brown cypress mustache on Aurora, which given the time and calm water can easily be erased by the captain.      

Originally our plan was to go past Georgetown to mile marker 448 Price Creek on the ICW, but then we realized that to anchor in that spot would put us too far from the bridge in Charleston in the morning and unable to get through it by 7:00a.m.  It would be closed from 7-9am, and then the tide would be very low, making some spots on the shallow side for our 5½ foot draft.  Having high tide to our advantage and still daylight we continued on to Dewees Creek mile marker 554 and dropped the anchor in a shell bottom.  The holding was good in light winds, and when a brief shower came through around 12:45a.m. the Delta held Aurora and her contents securely.

We are anticipating a relaxed day in Charleston tomorrow before heading off shore on Sunday.

Waterway Guidebooks:  Our second purchase of navigation tools was Dozier’s Waterway Guidebooks, also divided into regions, which give aerial photos with marked routes, listing for all marinas, distances, bridge and tide tables, detailed mile-by-mile navigational data, maps of favorite ports, hundreds of anchorages and “goin”  ashore information   

July 12—Wrightsville Beach, NC to North Myrtle Beach, SC

It is amazing to us that the days are already so much shorter.  While in New York, just two weeks ago, the sun was up by 5:15, and now only a few days later and few miles farther south, it is barely up by 6:00.  We waited until 5:30 and could see the outline of the channel markers on the dark water before pulling up anchor in Wrightsville Beach.  A few of the clouds lingered from the night before, but the sun finally broke through. 

The evening before we had noticed some foods in the top of the freezer were beginning to thaw, and Dennis tinkered with the unit enough to get it cooling, but thought it probably needed Freon.  Once underway, he called Barefoot Marina where we were planning to dock in Myrtle Beach to see if they had a refrigeration mechanic.  They did, and he was willing to come out at 3:00 when we arrived.  Without any bridge delays, and some current helping us along, we actually docked at 2:15, giving us an afternoon to enjoy the air conditioning, work on the boat, or go exploring.  We made our choices, Dennis needed to clean the boat, and wait for the mechanic, while I needed to explore the boardwalk shops and head for the beach.  In the heat it was a little too far to walk, so my bike provided my transportation.  It was fun to see families on vacation, enjoying shopping at the touristy Myrtle Beach stores, and even more fun to see them enjoying the beach. No denying it, people just love the beach, and I’m right out there with them, bending down looking for that evasive shell, pushing my toes into the warm sand, wading in the shallow water, deeply breathing in the salty air, calmed, comforted and even cheered by the whooshing water.  Revitalized I showered off the sand, and turned my bike boatward at 6:45.  Dennis, bless his heart, had the boat sparkling, the freezer freezing and the dinner simmering.  Bless his little heart. 

Getting up and out early definitely has its benefits!   

About Navigation: 

Mostly having sailed inland waters, and small inland waters at that, shifting through and learning how to use the myriad of available navigation tools has been like taking a college level course without an instructor.  Luckily Dennis has some experience with navigation in open water on charters, but for me it was a whole new medium. Each day after our regular post we will be sharing one of the tools we are learning to use to help us find our way.  Although just beginners, we thought ours would be a good perspective for anyone getting started with cruising. Thanks to all who gave us advice on these navigation tools.  By the way, many can be purchased at significant discounts at any of the boat shows, but wait until you’re ready to cruise in order to get the latest updated versions.   

Paper Charts:  To begin our library we chose to buy paper charts/maps, specifically Maptech Chartkits, which are reproductions of the latest editions of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAH) charts. They are divided into regions giving the GPS lat/long waypoints, magenta tracks between waypoints, bridges table, channel markers, depths, and destination highlights.  These charts are what we use to figure out where we’re going, how we’re going, how long it will take us, and the best route to get there.  Many times they are in the cockpit as we travel so we can reference them when we’re uncertain. 

July 11—Swansboro, NC to Wrightsville Beach, NC

Aqua water and dolphins swimming by the boat, a sure way to tell the Atlantic is close at hand.  Even Fritz wags his tail furiously and starts looking over the side when we call out, “Dolphin friends off the starboard.”  What a friendly dog.

Casper’s Marina was peaceful all night with just a few more showers rolling through without lightening involved.  Cool temperatures and overcast skies accompanied us when we turned southward in the morning.  All was quiet passing through the Camp LaJuene target practice area on the ICW, but we did see remnants of their handiwork.  

The second day of being back on the Intracoastal Waterway, ICW, brought more bridge troubles in the form of two and a half hours of waiting for openings.  Dennis runs our boat at about 6 knots, and if there is current with us that means we’ll do 7 knots, if against us 5 knots.  Then the wind is the other factor, sometimes helping by a knot or more.  At one time we were doing about 8 knots with both wind and current in our favor.  Just missing the first two bridges, we had already waited an hour, and still had two bridges to clear.  Our second to last bridge, Figure Eight Island Bridge was on the hour and half-hour, the last one, Wrightsville Beach, on the hour only.  Just missing the 2:00 opening, then waiting a half-hour we came through Figure Eight at 2:30, but needed to do 8 knots to get to Wrightsville 4 miles away at 3:00.  Maybe we could do it we thought.  Just after passing through Figure Eight though the current changed and we slowed to 6 knots.  Our hopes were dashed.  Although we were in sight of the bridge at 3:00, when we called the bridge operator to see how much she could delay, she politely replied, “Only 5 minutes, and you can’t make it by then.”  With no place to anchor, that’s when the holding pattern began, reversing, 360s, fighting current, avoiding vessels, docks and people in the water for another hour.  We were hoping a commercial or government vessel would call for an opening because they can go through any time, and we could slip through too, but there was none.  It just reinforces why we don’t spend time in casinos…blessed we are, but lucky, we’re definitely not.

Storms rolled through the Wrightsville Beach anchorage until about 10:00, this time accompanied with thunder boomers.  During a break we did manage to take Fritz to shore and get ice.  Even though we got wet a little the night before walking to Piggly Wiggly, we were glad we didn’t need to make the trip in Wrightsville Beach, which is first a mile dinghy ride then a mile walk, and with our luck, just not a trip we should make in a thunderstorm.    

July 9---Coinjock, NC to Bellhaven, NC

Coinjock Marina Restaurant serves up a 32oz prime rib, and boy is it delicious, or so the Captain tells me.  Their deep-fried homemade chips you could make yourself sick on and the green beans were seasoned like my mamas.  I don’t usually talk about food much, but to find such a wonderful restaurant in the middle of nowhere is exceptional and if you’re thinking of cruising this way, put it on your list.  We tried on our way north to stay at the marina, but they were full up.  This time with not many people cruising in the heat, we had prime dockage, one of only four of boats, but the restaurant was packed with locals enjoying the excellent fare.   

An overcast day had kept the intense heat at bay for several hours, and of course leaving at 5:30 didn’t hurt any either.  Described in Dozier’s Waterway Guide as some of the meanest water on the ICW, and in the Cesari blog as “terror to tranquility” (see our May 20 entry) on our northward crossing, Albarmarle Sound can inflict fear upon even seasoned sailors.  With memories lingering we dreaded the crossing, but put on our big sailor Tilleys, mustered our new-found courage, and took it on.  At first southwest winds were around 10 knots and on our nose, giving us some thumps, but nothing like our first crossing.  Then after about 30 minutes winds shifted more westward, allowing us to roll out the genny and have a decent motor sail the rest of the 15 mile crossing into the Alligator River.       

Winds 8-10 knots continued out of the west and a little current all day helped us cross Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, of the loneliest but loveliest, stretches of the trip.  It is amazing to see how the water color changes from FL to New York.  In this man-made canal the water is a beautiful amber color, and people tell us it is from the cypress trees along the shoreline.  It is clear and does not look dirty as in some venues, but has a color unlike we’ve seen.  No eagle or bear sightings, but there were many birds along the way.    

As we neared Bellhaven we could see the thunderclouds forming in the southwest, and NOAH weather channel reported thunderstorms headed our way.  Captain increased the rpms and we anchored just inside the breakwater before the storm came through.  There were some winds, but mostly rain.  We did venture across the choppy water to take Fritz ashore during a break in the downpour before we battened down for the night.

July 10--Bellhaven to Swansboro

Forty percent chance of thunderstorms made us unsure about whether to travel or not, but we decided to go and then anchor along the way if necessary.  It actually turned out to be a great morning, overcast, cool temperatures, calm waters, and a peaceful

18 mile-crossing of the tricky Neuse River.  Passing Oriental, and Portsmouth, then pressed our luck to make eighty-five miles to Swansboro, before we encountered the predicted scattered thunderstorms.  It was only for about the last hour, and we knew the rain was coming when the water up ahead turned to white foam.  Captain weathered the storm and by the time we docked at Casper’s Marina the rain had subsided and the water was calm.  After finishing dinner, we needed milk and bread so grabbed the umbrellas and took out for the half-mile walk to Piggly Wiggly. The store turned out to be more like a mile from the marina, and going was fine, but we could hear the metal roof rattle when the rain began again.  Groceries in backpacks, we just had to take refuge in the Dari-Queen on the return walk to avoid getting drenched by the downpour.  It worked out, the shower passed, our sweet tooth was satisfied, and though a bit soggy, back to Aurora with our provisions safe and sound.            

July 8

Most of you know Dennis is an early riser and when it comes to boat projects, you might say if it needs doing, he just wants to “Get ‘er done!”  no matter what time of the day it might be.  We’ve already had a diver scrape barnacles off the boat once this trip, and felt gunk once again might be slowing our speed.  I know some of you will find this hard to believe, while others who know him, will find it totally believable that at 6:00 a.m. Dennis was in the water with a long handled brush scrubbing furiously at Auroras green slimy bottom so we could be underway by 7:00.  Well, we left Portsmouth at 7:10 and his early effort seemed to have improved our speed.  What a guy!

Back on the ICW means navigating shallow water and timing the bridge openings.  The weekday schedules are given on the flip charts, but weekends leave us clueless.  At 7:50 we encountered our first bridge and when we called for an opening the tender said it would be at 8:30 coordinating with the Great Bridge Lock at 9:00.  Dropping anchor and waiting was our only option.  And as we’re learning to make good use of our down time, Dennis did some polishing on the stainless, while I trimmed up Fritz during our 40 minute stop.  By 9:15 we were through the bridge, in the lock tied securely and waiting for the water to rise at 9:45, it too coordinated with the 10:00 bridge opening on the south end.  On our way north in May the lock was crowded with 20 boats of all sizes, but this time it was just us.  North gates closed at 9:40 and we rose 3 feet to float Aurora up and motor out the south gates at 9:50.  Passing through the south bridge at 10:00, with the next bridge 4 miles away, meant we would have to go 8 knots to get to the next bridge by 10:30.  Captain pushed the motor up to 3,000 rpms, to do the 8, but the engine started to get hot, so he reduced and we motored slowly to get to the 11:00 opening instead. In those 4 hours we had only traveled 13 miles, but that’s just the way it goes on the ICW.

Coinjock, NC was our destination for the day and we made it in by 3:00 after a very hot run in 100+ degree temperatures.  We are looking forward to the next few days with the forecast for high eighties and good winds.  Bellhaven will be our anchorage on Monday night, and is where we had no cell service for several days, so just know our posts may not be possible while on this part of the ICW, but we’ll catch up when we have service again.

Storm update:  Yesterday we discovered that one of the front dodger plastic windows had been scratched and several holes poked through it during the durecho storm in Atlantic City.  It is kind of cloudy and should have been replaced before we left home, but glad I didn’t get to it as it would now have to be replaced again.  Also, yesterday in Virginia we noticed two power boats submerged, and heard before then of other boats on the Chesapeake.  As of two days ago there were still people without power in Virginia.  

Soooo grateful to be able to do a storm update in our blog rather than being in someone else’s!

July 6

If after a visit you didn’t remember anything else about Reedville, VA, I promise you, the ghastly odor emitting from the Omega Protein fish processing plant there is simply unforgettable.  It greeted us as we entered the Cockrell Creek channel, permeated our overnight dockage, and Dennis said it was still with him 10 miles after leaving the port this morning.  This small town is 2^nd only to Dutch Harbor Alaska in the amount of fish landed each year, and they claim the odor at the plant is better after installing a stack scrubber in 2010.  We’re giving them the benefit of the doubt though, saying the extreme heat has probably intensified the problem.  It takes second place only to Baltimore in intense olfactory discomfort we have encountered on this trip.

On the bright side, the people there are extremely friendly and the seafood at the Crazy Crab restaurant perched above the marina excellent.  Unable to raise the harbor master on the radio, we finally called the restaurant on the phone and they assisted us with where to dock when we arrived.  Reedville Marina was definitely a “do-it-yourself” place from fuel to pump out.  We were grateful for the $3.50 price at the pump for diesel, taking on 40 gallon after five days of travel.  The panoramic view of the creek from the restaurant, and later in the evening a spectacular fireworks display somewhat outweighed the plant stench carried in by the earlier breezes.

Our travel time from St. Michaels that morning was 10½ hours with some 5-8 SSW breezes.  We were pleasantly surprised by 88 degree temperatures making the trip from the eastern to western shore of the Chesapeake enjoyable.

July 7

Passing “Mile 0” today meant an end to our Chesapeake travels.  Another sixty-eight mile trip put us in Norfolk by 2:30, a day made shorter by a gift of 10 mph SSW winds and +1 knot of current.  Wind always makes for a cooler day, having to hose down Fritz only once. 

The Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth across the river from Norfolk is our port for tonight.  The harbor master asked when we got here if we came for the concert.  We having no clue replied, “What concert?”  He said, “ You picked a good night, Crosby, Still and Nash, are at the pavilion right there,” pointing 100 yards, off our stern.  He continued, “Furthermore, people have booked in here tonight just to listen to the concert.” 

Wow, what a deal.  Tickets went for $60 each.  For us the price of the marina was $70, and we can hear the whole concert from the boat.  In fact, I hear them getting started now so will shorten this session and go join Dennis in the cockpit.   

Hope you’re having a great Saturday night wherever you are.  Thanks again for following along with us.