June 10

We came, we saw, we spent, about thirty minutes in the Golden Nugget, but we didn’t conquer.  Just don’t have the heart for it, gamblin’ that is.  Anyway, Atlantic City is checked off the list and unlike some places we just can’t wait to explore further, we’re not sure we’ll come ashore again. 

Have you ever seen undulating, waving ribbons of water, pinks, purples and blues, with a mirror-like shine.  It’s hard to find words to describe the beauty of the Atlantic today.  It helps to understand why some people never want to return to land.  With every morning and evening the sky and water are new masterpieces of light and color.  And only for those few moments, never to be seen again.

Riding on the sea of tranquility, smooth as glass, the miles seemed to drag from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet.  We noticed a difference right away though when we arrived at the inlet.  It was Sunday afternoon, and about 85 degrees so everyone was out, rightfully so, enjoying the fair seas.  Captain had called the Harbor Master who told him to try to arrive around 2:00p.m. because of the current, so we did.  Fuel was to be our first stop then on to a T-dock (end dock) so we were anticipating easy on and off for docking.  But wait, remember before when I said “cruisers can’t be choosers?"  Well this is one of those times.  (To be continued.)

As we got further into the channel it got narrower, about 70 ft.wide in front of the marina fuel dock then about 100 yards further on was a narrow 50ft opening through a light rail train bridge.  We were in a line of about 6 boats who were headed through and were ready to swing over to the fuel dock for a starboard tie.  At that time I'm on the bow ready to throw a line to the hands on the dock when I hear the harbor master yell, "You need to turn around and come in on your port side."  "REALLY???"  I'm thinking.  So I yell the directions back to Dennis, and he begins a rapid 360 in the middle of the channel against the 3 knot current.  I guess the sight of a sixty-year-old woman flayling her arms about on the bow of the boat, yelling, "We're coming about!" was enough to scare the 5 boats following closely in the channel behind us into, slow down, reverse, turn out of the channel, anything to get out of our way letting us complete the turn back to the fuel dock.  In the meantime I'm making sure the lines are switched over to the port.  OK, so we're thinking the worst is over, we  did it, and nobody died.  

After getting fuel we noticed the harbor master on the phone talking worriedly about needing to put us somewhere else besides the T-dock, possibly a slip because he was concerned for our safety in the current on the other side of the bridge.  The only problem is we have to again make a fast 45 degree turn in swift water to get there, so he put two teenage dock hands on our boat to help us fend off if needed and get tied up.  First we had to make another 360 degree turn to be headed the right direction, but at least we could wait till there was no traffic in our way.  With 3 other adults on the dock when we got to the slip we were able to dock with everyone pulling, fending, pushing, while yelling directions.  De je vu? 

Even though we had a restless night worrying about how to get out of the slip, against current, wind, and very little room to manuever, the harbor master was determined we would get out of the marina safely, which with 4 people helping we did.   Although we didn't have a choice in the situation, which was definitely unsafe for us, we do have a choice to never return to Manasquan Inlet.

Traveling along Jersey shores today we came across Morey’s Pier.  The rides of twisted metal looked pretty scary and painful even from our vantage point a mile out on the water so we left that port-o-call to the younger crowd.  Getting closer to Atlantic City and the impressive buildings a guessing game began of who owned which one, and which one was the largest.  Choppy water on the Absecon Inlet was the only place for an anchorage, but we like free, so we took it.  A marina at the Golden Nugget Casino who wanted $3 per foot ($126 for our 41ft) for overnight dockage was kind enough to let us tie up our dinghy for a few hours.  Of course the Board Walk was why we stopped, so we hailed a Jitney (small people mover) and were off.  Hundreds of people strolled, ate, sat, talking, sunning, and gambling along the long walk.  Dennis’ birthday (#62) is today so appropriately he found a place to have a short “senior” nap along side another old guy while we were there.  Tonight we’ll return for birthday dinner.  I asked Dennis what to say about today he sang, “It’s a great day to be alive.”  His biggest gift of the day was getting phone calls from eight of the grandchildren singing “Happy Birthday to Grandpa.”  So yes, that indeed makes it a great day. 

Friday Update

We decided to stay at Cape May today so Atlantic City and losing our money will have to wait a day.  More later.

“Oh, say can you see by the dawn’s early light…”  There are advantages to being anchored next to the nation’s only Coast Guard Recruit Training Center, like taps at sunset and The National Anthem during breakfast.   Fritz thinks we’re trying to corrupt him because we snuck him on to their restricted beach area for his morning run.  What’s a dog to do?

Cape May’s alluring history kept us here today.  Taking the bikes ashore to the gracious Utsches Marina who allowed us to tie up there for a few hours, we began as usual at the visitor’s center collecting free maps.  It being almost noon time we strolled down the Washington Street Mall, quaint shops in old buildings.  Choosing Stewarts Root Beer Shop for lunch, especially enjoying the suds in frosted mugs.  Very satisfied with our choice, we rode two blocks east and found the white sand along Beach Avenue.  With no time for lounging on the beach, instead we turned south and pedaled about 3 miles towards Cape May Point and Sunset Beach one of the few places to be able to see the sun both rising and setting.  Located off the point is also a sunken concrete ship, the S.S. Atlantus a government experiment gone awry.  What were they thinking? 
   
A few blocks back north and east is Cape May Lighthouse, a WWII Bunker on the beach, and a migratory bird sanctuary.  The huge white swans on the pond were magnificent.  What looked like a large concrete box from the Atlantic side was the bunker.  We finished our afternoon with a look around the historic district and the restored Victorian homes.  Making one last stop at the grocery store then pedaling fast to the marina, Dennis made a turn I missed, but thank goodness for phones, he helped me find my way, and I was able to catch up to him without him backtracking to find me. 

Some of us rested well in Delaware City after being grandbaby-on-the-way sleepless in Baltimore.  Some of us woke up counting not sheep, but wind speed, tide, currents anything that might have an effect on today’s possible rough fifty-six mile ride on the Delaware River and Bay to Cape May, NJ.  Several cruisers were waiting another day, but after weighing all the factors, and trying to sleep on it, we left the marina at 5:00a.m.  The inky sky was beginning to lighten which was enough to see any debris, another factor after the coastal flooding here.  What we found was current running about 3 knots in our favor for four and a half hours, winds 5-10 knots, and only a light chop on the water.  All factors combined for those first few hours instead of our normal straight motoring at 7.5 knots, we saw average speeds of about 9 knots, and maxing at 11.7.  Needing to alter course slightly cost us the sail power, and when the current changed against us our speed was cut to 6.5 knots, still decent.  Fritz and I were able to keep Captain company in the cockpit the whole way. Winds have picked up this afternoon, and we were glad to be safely sheltered in Cape May shortly after noon.  Of course everyone has to make their own decision about what’s comfortable and safe for them, but after such a pleasant crossing on Aurora, we knew this one was right for us.  With almost perfect passages the last two days on what we had been told were very difficult ones, our navigational confidence has definitely gotten a boost. 

Cha-ching!  Atlantic City tomorrow!    

“Given wind, or no wind, I’d take no wind,” advice from the Annapolis harbormaster when describing what’s the best conditions for sailors northbound on the Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) Canal and the Delaware River/Bay to Cape May.  Dennis had studied the charts, tide tables, current tables, wind forecasts and gleaned advice from several sources before deciding how and when to take on the C&D today.  It began about the time the sun was rising over Baltimore this morning.  As we passed our waypoint, Chesapeake 20, making a sharp northward turn, we found ourselves in a flooding tide pushing us along 2 knots faster than the prop was turning.  It continued the whole way, and with a few mph of wind to help at one point Aurora maxed at 10knots of speed.  Even with the sails down later we were able to sustain 9 knots.  Surprisingly, although told we might encounter large cargo ships in the center of the 400 ft wide canal, saw only one sailboat, one jetski and one small trawler.  We felt the sun shining on us today, making Delaware City on the Delaware River at 1:45p.m.

As cruisers there are no givens, each day is totally different and although riding high on today’s pleasant wave know tomorrows Delaware River fifty-mile trip, through shallows and ships, where tide and currents are best at 2:00a.m. (not leaving till 6:00) will most probably challenge our "wind or no wind" skills.  Off to the berth early tonight!

Tired too because last night daughter Andrea in Austin, TX, who wasn’t due until July 3, had her first baby, Nolan Robert Atkins at 11:19p.m.  Hard to sleep both before and after getting to talk to her again at 1:45a.m our time.  Should be easy to rest peacefully tonight knowing all are doing well.  


  

Leaving Annapolis behind early this morning was like saying good bye to an old friend.  On the way out of our anchorage around 6:00 a.m., I took more pictures of the Naval Academy field with about five hundred high school students doing pushups and jumping jacks as they shouted to the rising sun, “Let’s go Navy!”  This is a camp designed to show them academy life, and from what we could see, is sure to scare off a few.  With 22,000 applications and only 1,200 accepted to the school, they would be extremely lucky to get a place in the exclusive freshman class of 2013.

There’s an old saying among sailors, that when there’s another boat on the water with the same heading, it’s a race.  This morning as Aurora headed north with 10mph NE winds she was out ahead of the “other” boat, and remained in the lead most of the twenty-seven miles to Baltimore.  Captain did his best to stay there, even taking shortcut, and going out of the channel, which is not something he does…ever.  But in this case it was a necessity to avoid the 82,000 ton bulk carrier.  In the end, though the “United Fortune” from Singapore eased on up, winning by several lengths, into her dock.  Foiled again! 

Baltimore, Inner Harbor has been an unusual experience, especially after just spent four days and nights in clean-cut Annapolis.  Leaving the Chesapeake, heading up the Patapsco River, then passing under Francis Scott Key Bridge we began to notice an odor, but thought it was just the industrial pollutants floating acrid across the water.  Just as we were happy with our set in the narrow Inner Harbor, the Baltimore Fire Department boat came over and suggested we move away for 30 minutes or so as they were going to do a water display, and as he put it, “you might not want this water on your boat.”  We complied and were glad we did.  Sorry to the locals in Baltimore but this place stinks.  The murky water is littered with so much trash they have a special boat with metal baskets on the front to scoop up the debris.  It is like being anchored in a cess pool.  Dennis tried sitting out in the cockpit, but was driven back inside by the overpowering smell.  Sure hope they clean up their act soon, as this cannot be healthy.

On a lighter note, all around the edges of the harbor there are water activities and rides of one sort or the other.  As we tied up the dinghy to take Fritz ashore three little boys ran over to the boat and one said, “How much for that?” thinking it was for rides too.  Smart kid shopping around, you just never know when you might get a great dinghy deal.

Tonight we made it back to the downtown waterfront, and found the foul odor not so bad there.  In the restaurant the waiter said it was some kind of algae problem.  We’re still not sure that is the total answer, but hopefully if it is, it will soon be gone.

An exciting end to our day, another “blue light special” team paid a visit at 9:00p.m.  Thankfully we were still up and dressed when Coast Guard officers came calling off our port.  One good thing about having an inspection in Wrightsville Beach a month ago is they were happy to be on their way after seeing the recent paperwork.       

Tomorrow we’re heading out early again, trying to make Chesapeake City on the flooding tide. 

For most of us boating is a getaway, a sport designed to be pleasurable which can be a bit challenging at times, but if we don’t feel up to it, it’s too hot, too cold, too rough, too windy or doesn’t suit us, we simply don’t go.

For some, no matter how challenging, how bad they feel, too hot, too cold, too rough, too windy, they simply have to go.  We heard their stories yesterday at the Maritime Museum in Eastport, MD gaining a new appreciation for the “Watermen” families who for years have made a living harvesting the oysters from the Chesapeake.  Most days start early and end twelve to fourteen hours later.  We saw several this yesterday morning when we left our anchorage at 5:30 already on the water running their trot lines.  Yes they do make a living, but it is challenging and physically exhausting.  Guess next time we have to dodge their crab pot or trot line we won’t be as quick to complain about their livelihood interfering with our fun.

For a view Sunday and Monday, June 3-4, of Aurora in Annapolis go to:   

http://www.annapolisyc.com/default.aspx?p=DynamicModule&pageid=281972&ssid=157917&vnf=1

We're on the left, white sailboat just off the nose of the Megayacht.

What do you get when you combine sailboats as far as the eye can see, eighteen marinas, “Ego Alley,” where boaters parade their craft in front of the City Dock, the state capital of Maryland, more 18^th century homes that any other city in the country, and four thousand of the brightest college students in the nation…………………………… You get Annapolis, home of US Naval Academy and America’s sailing capital.  Is laid back and lively an oxymoron?  It sure seems like Annapolis has it all; Its simple beauty in the unhurried life on the water; Its wealth of proud traditions from Navy heritage, to patriotism, and a love for sailing; Its eclectic historic district with a little something for everyone.

(to be coninuted) 

Touring the United States Naval Academy has to be one of the highlights of our two days here.  Seeing where four thousand Mid Shipmen eat, sleep and study in one gigantic dormitory, then strolling across the neatly manicured campus, you get a sense of strength developed through discipline and the determination they have to be of service to their countrymen.

On the recommendation of our friend, Tom Wells, who said we absolutely must go have breakfast at Chick and Ruth’s Delly on Main Street, we did.  Arriving about 9:00, we chatted with some locals, who turned out to be retired USMC Colonel and Mrs. Joe Flynn.  At 9:30, owner Ted got on the intercom and led in the Pledge of Allegiance, with everyone in the restaurant standing.  The walls were lined newspaper articles and awards to the owners in recognition of patriotism, friendship, and caring commitment to helping those who have sacrificed for our country.  We called Tom to thank him for a glimpse of these every day exceptional people who are Annapolis. 

Actually staying here two more nights, as the winds are too strong 15-25, on Monday.  

Again, we would love for you to leave a comment on the blog, and have changed the setting to hopefully make it easier than in the past.